Chapter III
Numerical Modeling
31
Table III-1 Symbols and Significations in Continuity and Momentum Equations.
The horizontal stress terms are described using a gradient-stress relationship, which is simplified
as follows:
Equation III-4
Equation III-5
The surface and bottom boundary conditions for u, v, and w are as follows:
Equation III-6
Equation III-7
Equations of wave action conservation
The fundamental equation that describes wave action is the equilibrium equation, expressed in
either Cartesian or spherical coordinates.
Symbol
Signification
Symbol
Signification
t
Time.
A
Horizontal viscosity.
Pa
Atmospheric pressure.
g
Gravity acceleration.
x. y , z
Cartesian coordinates.
𝝆 𝒘
Water density.
η
Surface elevation.
𝑺 𝒙𝒙 ,𝑺 𝒙𝒚
𝑺 𝒚𝒙 ,𝑺 𝒚𝒚
Component of the radial tensor.
d
Water depth.
𝝂 𝒕
Turbulent vertical viscosity.
h = η+d
Total water depth.
𝝆 𝟎
The reference density of water.
u, v , w
Velocity components in the
x, y, and z directions.
S
Amplitude of discharge caused by
point sources.
(𝒖 𝒔 ,𝒗 𝒔 )
Velocity at which water is
discharged into the ambient
water.
f = 2Ω sinΦ Coriolis parameter {Ω is the
angular velocity and Φ is the
geographical latitude}.
(𝝉 𝒔𝒙 , 𝝉 𝒔𝒚 ) x and y components of
surface wind stress.
(𝝉 𝒃𝒙 ,𝝉 𝒃𝒚 )
x and y components of bottom
wind stress.
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