253
reducing carbon emissions (Choudhury 2017). Unfortunately, hemp’s links with
marijuana makes its commercialization difficult. Despite this, it is by far the most
environmentally friendly fibre, and its popularity is growing. China, for example,
has become the leading producer and exporter of hemp fibres (FAO 2009).
Producers more often engage in the production of softer textured textiles through
mixing hemp fibres with cotton. CRAiLAR (2018), for example, uses an enzymebased process to transform blast fibres such as Hemp into softer fibres. This process
can give hemp fibres a similar feeling and appearance to cotton-based fibres.
Although there is not an exclusive process for blast fibres, these fibres including
hemp, flax, jute and kenaf are suitable for cold weather and do not require irrigation.
Blast fibres are competitive in the market, and there is no need to blend them with
others. Furthermore, this process could be mono-material or multi-material; blast
fibres used in this enzyme process are all biodegradable, becoming biological nutrients during decomposition.
Mulberry
Another fibre experiencing rapid growth with high adaptability to poor soil and
climate change is mulberry. Mulberry pulp has been used to make paper in Asia,
particularly in Korea, Japan, China, Thailand and the Philippines (Muthu and
Gardetti 2016). Mulberry yarns were first used in the late twenty-first century in
Korea where manufactures and research institutions developed yarns as a plytwisted or filament yarn. These can be used for weaving and knitting textiles and in
the production of cooling clothing (Muthu and Gardetti 2016). Mulberry is made
using a rotary slitter and twisted. Water is added during the twisting process, so the
yarn is softer and has a high tensile strength (Park and Lee 2014). North Face Korea
and Youngone Outdoor – both multinational outdoor companies – have already used
mulberry in their products. However, Mulberry yarns, much the same as hemp, are
stiff and rough, making the textile process difficult.
These case studies clearly show there are many sustainable materials available to
the fashion industry. These in conjunction with sustainable processes could contribute towards a more sustainable fashion industry. Such practices include disuse of
synthetic chemicals that may contaminate water supplies and promotion of lowenergy textile manufacturing. Tencel fibres, known as Lyocell, are fibres produced
by the international group Lenzing, which produces wood-based viscose fibres,
modal fibres, lyocell fibres and filament yarn. Lyocell fibres are produced through
regenerating cellulose in an organic solvent, N-methylmorpholine-N-oxide hydrate.
This procedure makes textiles softer, with greater absorption than cotton (TENCEL
2018). These fibres are also “derived from sustainable wood sources – natural forests and sustainably managed plantations. Wood and pulp used by the Lenzing
Group are harvested from certified and controlled sources” in Austria and neighbouring countries (TENCEL 2018). Lenzing fibres are manufactured in a closedloop, as cellulosic fibres are fully compostable. “Cellulose disintegrates into its
native substances and prepares the ground for new plants to grow” (Lenzing 2018).
These textiles are created through the use of nanotechnology in an award-winning
solvent-spinning process which recycles water and reuses the solvent at a recovery
16 SDG 15 Life on Land
reducing carbon emissions (Choudhury 2017). Unfortunately, hemp’s links with
marijuana makes its commercialization difficult. Despite this, it is by far the most
environmentally friendly fibre, and its popularity is growing. China, for example,
has become the leading producer and exporter of hemp fibres (FAO 2009).
Producers more often engage in the production of softer textured textiles through
mixing hemp fibres with cotton. CRAiLAR (2018), for example, uses an enzymebased process to transform blast fibres such as Hemp into softer fibres. This process
can give hemp fibres a similar feeling and appearance to cotton-based fibres.
Although there is not an exclusive process for blast fibres, these fibres including
hemp, flax, jute and kenaf are suitable for cold weather and do not require irrigation.
Blast fibres are competitive in the market, and there is no need to blend them with
others. Furthermore, this process could be mono-material or multi-material; blast
fibres used in this enzyme process are all biodegradable, becoming biological nutrients during decomposition.
Mulberry
Another fibre experiencing rapid growth with high adaptability to poor soil and
climate change is mulberry. Mulberry pulp has been used to make paper in Asia,
particularly in Korea, Japan, China, Thailand and the Philippines (Muthu and
Gardetti 2016). Mulberry yarns were first used in the late twenty-first century in
Korea where manufactures and research institutions developed yarns as a plytwisted or filament yarn. These can be used for weaving and knitting textiles and in
the production of cooling clothing (Muthu and Gardetti 2016). Mulberry is made
using a rotary slitter and twisted. Water is added during the twisting process, so the
yarn is softer and has a high tensile strength (Park and Lee 2014). North Face Korea
and Youngone Outdoor – both multinational outdoor companies – have already used
mulberry in their products. However, Mulberry yarns, much the same as hemp, are
stiff and rough, making the textile process difficult.
These case studies clearly show there are many sustainable materials available to
the fashion industry. These in conjunction with sustainable processes could contribute towards a more sustainable fashion industry. Such practices include disuse of
synthetic chemicals that may contaminate water supplies and promotion of lowenergy textile manufacturing. Tencel fibres, known as Lyocell, are fibres produced
by the international group Lenzing, which produces wood-based viscose fibres,
modal fibres, lyocell fibres and filament yarn. Lyocell fibres are produced through
regenerating cellulose in an organic solvent, N-methylmorpholine-N-oxide hydrate.
This procedure makes textiles softer, with greater absorption than cotton (TENCEL
2018). These fibres are also “derived from sustainable wood sources – natural forests and sustainably managed plantations. Wood and pulp used by the Lenzing
Group are harvested from certified and controlled sources” in Austria and neighbouring countries (TENCEL 2018). Lenzing fibres are manufactured in a closedloop, as cellulosic fibres are fully compostable. “Cellulose disintegrates into its
native substances and prepares the ground for new plants to grow” (Lenzing 2018).
These textiles are created through the use of nanotechnology in an award-winning
solvent-spinning process which recycles water and reuses the solvent at a recovery
16 SDG 15 Life on Land