252
Both natural and synthetic processes for the conversion of fibres into textiles use
natural resources in the wet-treatment phases, including bleach, dye, print and final
finishing to name a few. The mix of water and chemicals resulting from these processes contains large amounts of dyes, diluents, bleaches, detergents, optical brighteners and heavy metals among others. Evidence shows that these chemicals pollute
the environment due to their high levels of acidity or alkalinity (pH)
(Choudhury 2017).
16.2.3.1.1 Natural Fibres
Cotton
Cotton represents almost 80% of natural fibres for apparel, yet it is an excessively
water-consuming crop, representing a problem for waste management. It also
involves many issues regarding pesticide control; as with the higher use of pesticides, the insects’ resistance to pesticides increases, demanding more aggressive
doses resulting in a greater threat to surrounding biodiversity and human health
(Choudhury 2017). The environmental pressure of cotton industry is huge, and as
pointed out by WWF, even bringing cotton production to an acceptable environmental standard is a very challenging task (WWF 2019). Monsanto, the company that
dominates the market of genetically modified (GM) seed, embarked into the reduction of the use of pesticides. Yet, the Pesticide Action Network (PAN) states that
GM is not the appropriate solution as Bt cotton contains the toxin from the bacterium Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) which kills some natural pests, such as the cotton
bollworm (Black 2012) (not sure if this is correct).
However, cotton production cannot solely rely on this practice as there are other
processes affecting yields, including rain distribution, soil conditions and farming
practices. Moreover, whilst some pests are controlled by Bt cotton, others will
replace them resulting in the so-called pesticide treadmill (Black 2012). Long-term
solutions lie in the use of organic fertilization, avoiding synthetic chemicals, crop
rotation and farming practices that are aligned with sustainable parameters for both
nature and human wellbeing. Farmers and supply chain members have the support
from organizations such as Better Cotton Initiative BCI, a not-for-profit organization which offers information and training programmes on this subject.
Hemp
In 2009, at the International Year of Natural Fibres symposium, the use of hemp was
acknowledged as a natural fibre which should be used widely. Hemp’s ecological
footprint is less harmful. It grows quickly and densely and requires low-level water
consumption. It is resistant to ultraviolet radiation, is naturally anti-bacterial and
dyes well (FAO 2009). To balance the production of natural fibres, sources such as
hemp should be considered more seriously by the textile industry. In Japan, for
example, hemp has been used since the Jōmon Period for weaving clothing and
baskets (Clark and Merlin 2013). Hemp thrives with average rainfall, and its naturally long fibres allow efficient spinning, using less energy during production,
C. Arana et al.
Both natural and synthetic processes for the conversion of fibres into textiles use
natural resources in the wet-treatment phases, including bleach, dye, print and final
finishing to name a few. The mix of water and chemicals resulting from these processes contains large amounts of dyes, diluents, bleaches, detergents, optical brighteners and heavy metals among others. Evidence shows that these chemicals pollute
the environment due to their high levels of acidity or alkalinity (pH)
(Choudhury 2017).
16.2.3.1.1 Natural Fibres
Cotton
Cotton represents almost 80% of natural fibres for apparel, yet it is an excessively
water-consuming crop, representing a problem for waste management. It also
involves many issues regarding pesticide control; as with the higher use of pesticides, the insects’ resistance to pesticides increases, demanding more aggressive
doses resulting in a greater threat to surrounding biodiversity and human health
(Choudhury 2017). The environmental pressure of cotton industry is huge, and as
pointed out by WWF, even bringing cotton production to an acceptable environmental standard is a very challenging task (WWF 2019). Monsanto, the company that
dominates the market of genetically modified (GM) seed, embarked into the reduction of the use of pesticides. Yet, the Pesticide Action Network (PAN) states that
GM is not the appropriate solution as Bt cotton contains the toxin from the bacterium Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) which kills some natural pests, such as the cotton
bollworm (Black 2012) (not sure if this is correct).
However, cotton production cannot solely rely on this practice as there are other
processes affecting yields, including rain distribution, soil conditions and farming
practices. Moreover, whilst some pests are controlled by Bt cotton, others will
replace them resulting in the so-called pesticide treadmill (Black 2012). Long-term
solutions lie in the use of organic fertilization, avoiding synthetic chemicals, crop
rotation and farming practices that are aligned with sustainable parameters for both
nature and human wellbeing. Farmers and supply chain members have the support
from organizations such as Better Cotton Initiative BCI, a not-for-profit organization which offers information and training programmes on this subject.
Hemp
In 2009, at the International Year of Natural Fibres symposium, the use of hemp was
acknowledged as a natural fibre which should be used widely. Hemp’s ecological
footprint is less harmful. It grows quickly and densely and requires low-level water
consumption. It is resistant to ultraviolet radiation, is naturally anti-bacterial and
dyes well (FAO 2009). To balance the production of natural fibres, sources such as
hemp should be considered more seriously by the textile industry. In Japan, for
example, hemp has been used since the Jōmon Period for weaving clothing and
baskets (Clark and Merlin 2013). Hemp thrives with average rainfall, and its naturally long fibres allow efficient spinning, using less energy during production,
C. Arana et al.