25 Cosmetics and Cosmeceutical Applications of Microalgae Pigments
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25.4.1 Sunscreen
Short-term ultraviolet (UV) exposure has several beneficial effects, including vitamin
D synthesis in the skin, immediate pigmentation, skin thickening, and suntan (Webb
and Engelsen 2006). However, long-term exposure to UV radiation results in skin
damage including wrinkles, premature skin aging, and leads to skin cancer. Furthermore, excessive exposure of UV leads to reactive oxygen species (ROS) production, cytokine synthesis, and pyrimidine dimer formation in the genome of skin
cells. These formations cause the activation of the mitogen-activated protein kinase
(MAPK) signaling pathway and trigger intracellular senescence (Kim et al. 2018).
Based on these harmful effects, it is important to protect the skin during UV exposure
by using skin care products, such as sunscreen, sunblock lotion, and antiaging serum.
Skin care products such as sunscreen creams, antiaging creams, emollient, and anti-irritants cream have been developed from microalgae-derived
pigments(Venkatesan et al. 2015). The major pigment of microalgae, carotenoid
(astaxanthin, lutein, zeaxanthin, and canthaxanthin) which is abundant in Haematococcus and Dunaliella, possess antioxidant activity and protective properties against
sun damage (Ryu et al. 2015). Tominaga and colleagues stated astaxanthin treatment
might normalize the corneocyte conditions protecting the keratinocyte differentiation and cornification from oxidative damage such as inflammation and improve
the condition of skin layer in all layers (Tominaga et al. 2012). Another study has
reported that astaxanthin derived from Haematococcus pluvialis showed the preventive effects toward UVA irradiation on filaggrin metabolism and desquamation in the
epidermis and the extracellular matrix in the dermis (Komatsu et al. 2017).
Another carotenoid pigment, zeaxanthin, has been tested for its photoprotective
effects on human skin by oral intake. Zeaxanthin dosage of 30–80 mg per day sufficiently generates a substantial increase in the person’s ability to withstand elevated
levels of UV exposure without subsequent pain (Gierhart and Fox 2013). Moreover,
combined treatment of lutein and zeaxanthin has been reported to give multiple benefits to the skin, protection from detrimental effects of UV light as well as increase
the surface lipids, skin hydration, and skin elasticity (Palombo et al. 2007).
Violaxanthin, an orange pigment from microalgae, has been proved to have photoprotective effects against UVB-irradiated human dermal fibroblasts. This pigment
has been extracted from microalgae Nannochloropsis oceania and it significantly
blocked UVB-induced damage including decreased cell viability and increased ROS
production (Kim et al. 2018).
Another pigment from microalgae, fucoxanthin, has been investigated, fucoxanthin has the ability to suppress tyrosinase activity, melanogenesis in melanoma,
and pigmentation in UV-irradiated through topical treatment (Shimoda et al. 2010).
Fucoxanthin also plays an important role to significantly reduce intracellular ROS
generated by exposure to UVB radiation in human fibroblast (Heo et al. 2008).
Another work showed fucoxanthin can stimulate restoration of filaggrin by enhancing
the metabolism in the dermis, leading to it exerting protective and therapeutic effect
against sunburn (Matsui et al. 2016). Knowing all these photoprotective effects of
621
25.4.1 Sunscreen
Short-term ultraviolet (UV) exposure has several beneficial effects, including vitamin
D synthesis in the skin, immediate pigmentation, skin thickening, and suntan (Webb
and Engelsen 2006). However, long-term exposure to UV radiation results in skin
damage including wrinkles, premature skin aging, and leads to skin cancer. Furthermore, excessive exposure of UV leads to reactive oxygen species (ROS) production, cytokine synthesis, and pyrimidine dimer formation in the genome of skin
cells. These formations cause the activation of the mitogen-activated protein kinase
(MAPK) signaling pathway and trigger intracellular senescence (Kim et al. 2018).
Based on these harmful effects, it is important to protect the skin during UV exposure
by using skin care products, such as sunscreen, sunblock lotion, and antiaging serum.
Skin care products such as sunscreen creams, antiaging creams, emollient, and anti-irritants cream have been developed from microalgae-derived
pigments(Venkatesan et al. 2015). The major pigment of microalgae, carotenoid
(astaxanthin, lutein, zeaxanthin, and canthaxanthin) which is abundant in Haematococcus and Dunaliella, possess antioxidant activity and protective properties against
sun damage (Ryu et al. 2015). Tominaga and colleagues stated astaxanthin treatment
might normalize the corneocyte conditions protecting the keratinocyte differentiation and cornification from oxidative damage such as inflammation and improve
the condition of skin layer in all layers (Tominaga et al. 2012). Another study has
reported that astaxanthin derived from Haematococcus pluvialis showed the preventive effects toward UVA irradiation on filaggrin metabolism and desquamation in the
epidermis and the extracellular matrix in the dermis (Komatsu et al. 2017).
Another carotenoid pigment, zeaxanthin, has been tested for its photoprotective
effects on human skin by oral intake. Zeaxanthin dosage of 30–80 mg per day sufficiently generates a substantial increase in the person’s ability to withstand elevated
levels of UV exposure without subsequent pain (Gierhart and Fox 2013). Moreover,
combined treatment of lutein and zeaxanthin has been reported to give multiple benefits to the skin, protection from detrimental effects of UV light as well as increase
the surface lipids, skin hydration, and skin elasticity (Palombo et al. 2007).
Violaxanthin, an orange pigment from microalgae, has been proved to have photoprotective effects against UVB-irradiated human dermal fibroblasts. This pigment
has been extracted from microalgae Nannochloropsis oceania and it significantly
blocked UVB-induced damage including decreased cell viability and increased ROS
production (Kim et al. 2018).
Another pigment from microalgae, fucoxanthin, has been investigated, fucoxanthin has the ability to suppress tyrosinase activity, melanogenesis in melanoma,
and pigmentation in UV-irradiated through topical treatment (Shimoda et al. 2010).
Fucoxanthin also plays an important role to significantly reduce intracellular ROS
generated by exposure to UVB radiation in human fibroblast (Heo et al. 2008).
Another work showed fucoxanthin can stimulate restoration of filaggrin by enhancing
the metabolism in the dermis, leading to it exerting protective and therapeutic effect
against sunburn (Matsui et al. 2016). Knowing all these photoprotective effects of