25 Cosmetics and Cosmeceutical Applications of Microalgae Pigments
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Marine microalgae as well as another marine organism perform completely
different in many biological aspects compared to them which living in terrestrial
waters, as an adaptation to their environment (Lordan et al. 2011). Marine microalgae
have an interesting potential as a natural producer of bioactive compounds. Cultured
microalgae are known to produce intracellular and extracellular metabolites which
are still difficult to synthesize chemically. In an optimal condition of temperature, pH,
and nutrient in medium, incubation period, light intensity and salinity, diverse biological activities can be performed (Noaman et al. 2004). One of the interesting products
of microalgae is pigment. Pigment contained in microalgae has a unique characteristic and function from each species. This has drawn the attention of researchers
to study more about microalgae’s pigments. This chapter focused only on marine
microalgae and its pigment contents especially for cosmetics and cosmeceuticals.
25.1.1 Microalgal-Used History
In the past of thousands of years, microalgae were mostly used only as feed for fish
larvae. The earliest documented microalgae for human consumption was reported in
China, who consume Nostoc sp. during famine event (Spolaore et al. 2006). As a food
diet, the most used genera of microalgae is Spirulina which started to be consumed
traditionally (in small scale) in Maya civilization and by some African tribes in Chad
and Niger (Belay 2008). Few decades later, this one celled organism has become a
vital material for the needs of human life. People started microalgae biomass production, as they know their potential, especially for health supplements and biodiesel
producers (Gouveia and Oliveira 2009). Japan started the first commercial huge scale
microalgae biomass production in 1960s. As their company name, Nihon Chlorella,
the main product is dried Chlorella. Through this company, Japan was the first one
to introduce microalgae as health supplement in various forms (tablets, drinks, and
food additives) (Blackburn and Volkman 2012). Microalgae based health supplements became more popular by the discovery of high polyunsaturated fatty acid
(PUFA), in Nannochloropsis sp. Then followed by the establishment of mass scale
culture and harvesting facility in Mexico in the early 1970s. The facility produced
well-known high nutrient microalgae Arthrospira sp. which is commonly referred
as Spirulina. The industry of Spirulina is a massive success. Spirulina was known as
organic healthy food that have a big potential, so called “superfood” (Blackburn and
Volkman 2012). While microalgae’s pigments isolation and utilization as cosmetics
is still new.
Cyprus is one of the pioneer countries which uses algae as cosmetic’s raw material. Due to its extensive water resources, Cyprus has cultured alga in large scale
as cosmetics material as well as herbal ingredients. Modern algal-based cosmetics
manufacture was established in Japan with Lina Blue (Spirulina spp. and Porphyra
spp.) as colorant for eye shadow. Followed by Monaco with Protulines which use
Spirulina platensis as linoleic acid source; Poland with its product Bielenda which
use Spirulina platensis as its raw material as antiaging cream and Dermochlorella
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