Advances in Phytochemistry, Textile and Renewable Energy Research for
Industrial Growth – Nzila et al. (Eds)
© 2022 Copyright the Author(s), ISBN: 978-1-032-11871-0
Open Access: www.taylorfrancis.com, CC BY-NC-ND 4.0 license
Dyeing characteristics of different solvent extracts of Euclea divinorum on
cotton fabric
S. Manyim & A.K. Kiprop
Department of Chemistry and Biochemistry, Moi University
Africa Center of Excellence in Phytochemicals, Textile and Renewable Energy, Moi University
J.I. Mwasiagi
Department of Manufacturing, Industrial and Textile Engineering, Moi University
A.C. Mecha
Department of Chemical and Process Engineering, Moi University
ABSTRACT: Most of the dyes used in the textile industry are of synthetic origin. Recently the use of natural
dyes in dyeing has regained interest due to environmental hazards associated with synthetic dyes. Therefore there
is need to introduce more natural dyes in order to satisfy the increasing demand. Euclea divinorum has been in
use as a source of traditional medicine for toothache, chest pain, constipation, cancer, pneumonia, and snake bite.
For many years the root and stem of E. divinorum has been used traditionally by different communities to color
the mouth and lips and as a dye but its potential as a source of natural dye for textile dyeing has not been exploited.
This study investigated the effect of different solvent extracts on the dyeing characteristics of dyestuffs from
Euclea divinorum plant on cotton fabric. Light, wash, and rub fastness of the dyed cotton were tested using fad-ometer, launder-o-meter, and crock-o-meter, respectively. Color coordinates, reflectance, and color strength were
determined using the reflectance spectrophotometer. The aqueous and methanolic extracts showed the highest
color strengths followed by ethyl acetate extract. The wash, light, and rub fastness values for aqueous and
methanolic extracts were between 4 and 5 which is above the acceptable levels of 3. Quantitative phytochemical
analysis indicated that methanolic extract had the highest content of phenols, tannins, and flavonoids compared
to the other solvent extracts.
1 INTRODUCTION
Dyes from natural sources have started to gain popularity in the recent years due to the environmental
hazards associated with synthetic dyes (Adeel et al.
2018). Synthetic dyes are mutagenic, toxic and carcinogenic (Khatri, Nidheesh, Anantha Singh & Suresh
Kumar 2018; Rawat, Mishra, & Sharma 2016; Sharma,
Dangi, & Shukla 2018). On the other hand, natural dyes
are biodegradable and compatible with nature hence
have found applications in various industries such as
textile, food, cosmetics and drug industries as a source
of color. Natural dyes are obtained from plants, animals, insects, and minerals (Prabhu & Bhute 2012).
Extraction methods of natural dyes from their sources
include aqueous, solvent/alcoholic, acid/base, fermentation, and enzymatic (Saxena & Raja 2014). Recent
advanced methods of extraction are ultrasonic extraction (Ben Ticha et al. 2017) and microwave-assisted
extraction (Sinha, Chowdhury, Saha, & Datta 2013).
A natural dye material is not a single chemical unit
but forms part of the plant matrix that is made up of various materials which are not dyes (Baliarsingh, Panda,
Jena, Das, & Das 2012). Methods of extracting natural
dyes differ because the nature and solubility of these
dyes vary depending on the source (Bechtold, Mahmudali, & Mussak 2007; (Souissi, Guesmi & Moussa
2018). The lack of standard methods of extraction that
can be applied to various sources of natural dyes makes
it a complex process (Gupta 2019; Vankar 2016). The
process of determination of the suitable method for
extraction of a dye from a particular source is a crucial step since it plays a significant role in the final
concentration, color strength, and color fastness of the
natural dye extract on the fabric (Velmurugan et al.
2017). Color measurements on a dyed fabric are given
as the relative color strength and fastness properties.
Color strength refers to the relative concentration of
the dye absorbed by the fabric while the color fastness to wash, rub, and light is the ability of the dye
to remain fixed on the fabric after subjecting the dyed
fabric to respective fastness tests. Color fastness rating
is between 1 (poor) and 5 (excellent) fastness (Souissi
et al. 2018).
Euclea divinorum Hierns (Ebenaceae) is an evergreen shrub that is mainly found along escarpments
136
DOI 10.1201/9781003221968-18
Industrial Growth – Nzila et al. (Eds)
© 2022 Copyright the Author(s), ISBN: 978-1-032-11871-0
Open Access: www.taylorfrancis.com, CC BY-NC-ND 4.0 license
Dyeing characteristics of different solvent extracts of Euclea divinorum on
cotton fabric
S. Manyim & A.K. Kiprop
Department of Chemistry and Biochemistry, Moi University
Africa Center of Excellence in Phytochemicals, Textile and Renewable Energy, Moi University
J.I. Mwasiagi
Department of Manufacturing, Industrial and Textile Engineering, Moi University
A.C. Mecha
Department of Chemical and Process Engineering, Moi University
ABSTRACT: Most of the dyes used in the textile industry are of synthetic origin. Recently the use of natural
dyes in dyeing has regained interest due to environmental hazards associated with synthetic dyes. Therefore there
is need to introduce more natural dyes in order to satisfy the increasing demand. Euclea divinorum has been in
use as a source of traditional medicine for toothache, chest pain, constipation, cancer, pneumonia, and snake bite.
For many years the root and stem of E. divinorum has been used traditionally by different communities to color
the mouth and lips and as a dye but its potential as a source of natural dye for textile dyeing has not been exploited.
This study investigated the effect of different solvent extracts on the dyeing characteristics of dyestuffs from
Euclea divinorum plant on cotton fabric. Light, wash, and rub fastness of the dyed cotton were tested using fad-ometer, launder-o-meter, and crock-o-meter, respectively. Color coordinates, reflectance, and color strength were
determined using the reflectance spectrophotometer. The aqueous and methanolic extracts showed the highest
color strengths followed by ethyl acetate extract. The wash, light, and rub fastness values for aqueous and
methanolic extracts were between 4 and 5 which is above the acceptable levels of 3. Quantitative phytochemical
analysis indicated that methanolic extract had the highest content of phenols, tannins, and flavonoids compared
to the other solvent extracts.
1 INTRODUCTION
Dyes from natural sources have started to gain popularity in the recent years due to the environmental
hazards associated with synthetic dyes (Adeel et al.
2018). Synthetic dyes are mutagenic, toxic and carcinogenic (Khatri, Nidheesh, Anantha Singh & Suresh
Kumar 2018; Rawat, Mishra, & Sharma 2016; Sharma,
Dangi, & Shukla 2018). On the other hand, natural dyes
are biodegradable and compatible with nature hence
have found applications in various industries such as
textile, food, cosmetics and drug industries as a source
of color. Natural dyes are obtained from plants, animals, insects, and minerals (Prabhu & Bhute 2012).
Extraction methods of natural dyes from their sources
include aqueous, solvent/alcoholic, acid/base, fermentation, and enzymatic (Saxena & Raja 2014). Recent
advanced methods of extraction are ultrasonic extraction (Ben Ticha et al. 2017) and microwave-assisted
extraction (Sinha, Chowdhury, Saha, & Datta 2013).
A natural dye material is not a single chemical unit
but forms part of the plant matrix that is made up of various materials which are not dyes (Baliarsingh, Panda,
Jena, Das, & Das 2012). Methods of extracting natural
dyes differ because the nature and solubility of these
dyes vary depending on the source (Bechtold, Mahmudali, & Mussak 2007; (Souissi, Guesmi & Moussa
2018). The lack of standard methods of extraction that
can be applied to various sources of natural dyes makes
it a complex process (Gupta 2019; Vankar 2016). The
process of determination of the suitable method for
extraction of a dye from a particular source is a crucial step since it plays a significant role in the final
concentration, color strength, and color fastness of the
natural dye extract on the fabric (Velmurugan et al.
2017). Color measurements on a dyed fabric are given
as the relative color strength and fastness properties.
Color strength refers to the relative concentration of
the dye absorbed by the fabric while the color fastness to wash, rub, and light is the ability of the dye
to remain fixed on the fabric after subjecting the dyed
fabric to respective fastness tests. Color fastness rating
is between 1 (poor) and 5 (excellent) fastness (Souissi
et al. 2018).
Euclea divinorum Hierns (Ebenaceae) is an evergreen shrub that is mainly found along escarpments
136
DOI 10.1201/9781003221968-18