340
Coastal Engineering: Theory and Practice
horizontally composite, 257
mound, 160
semi-circular, 162
semi-circular detached, 167
sloping, 160
submerged, 13, 101, 159
submerged offshore, 105
S-type, 167
vertical, 160-162
Buckingham’s pi theorem, 299, 301
buried toe, 229
bypassing, 144, 145, 148, 150
C
caisson, 106, 162, 246, 256
cell circulation, 53
channel, 21, 26, 31, 68, 137, 148, 218
clapotis, 237, 243, 245
cliff, 15, 42, 235
Coastal
defence, 189, 197
environment, 1, 67
érosion, 10, 97, 98, 122
features, 15, 17
management, 10
morphology, 1, 64, 66, 102
protection, 1, 10, 99, 101, 102,
159, 235
structures, 69, 185, 197, 235, 302
coastline, 9, 47, 64, 68, 117, 121, 332
coefficient
berm réduction, 203
curvature, 22
uniformity, 22
drag, 26, 118, 232
friction, 28, 241
layer, 275, 276, 278
reflection, 237, 242
refraction, 6
roughness, 188-189, 195
shoaling, 207
stability, 169, 172, 180, 182
cofferdams, 217
complex slopes, 186, 202
composite slopes, 189
composite structures, 202
convergence criteria, 333
coral reefs, 113, 124, 125
critical shear stress, 33, 34, 39, 231
crown wall, 106, 136, 160, 165
currents, 2, 38, 41, 50, 55, 64, 101,
118, 145, 185, 226, 232, 305
current drag, 264
current friction factor, 62, 82
D
damage assessment, 182, 183
area method, 182
number of units method, 183
dampening, 18
Darcy’ law, 301
deformations, 2
depth limited, 7
domain
frequency, 320
time, 189
diffraction, 6, 7, 9, 105
dimensionless stability, 242
discharge, 18, 38, 145, 146, 194,
196-198
factor, 197-200
rate, 144
velocity, 154
dispersion relation, 328
downdrift, 110, 118, 135, 148-150,
152, 229
drag, 21, 26, 29, 229
coeffcient, 26, 118, 232
force, 39, 299, 300
drift, 55, 121, 134, 137, 144, 148, 150,
153, 154
dune, 14, 98
instability, 67
dynamic
forces, 236
oceanic System, 20
pressure, 45, 236, 246
similarity, 305-307
similitude, 304