339
Index
A
accretion, 12, 13, 139
armour units
Accropode, 170, 171, 188, 242
antifer cube, 171
CORE-LOC, 188, 242
cob, 171
concrète, 170
Dolos, 170-172, 175, 176,
178-181, 188, 236
hollow cube, 188
Rock, 143, 188
Tetrapod, 169-172, 188, 236,
242, 253, 257, 278, 279
Airy’s wave theory, 31, see wave; Airy
alongshore
current velocity, 75
sédiment transport, 64
alongshore drift, 133
angle of repose, 28
angular wave frequency, 328
approach channel, 26, 110, 116, 148,
150-152, 303
armour layer, 160, 165, 180, 183, 253
artificial beach nourishment, 137
artificial reefs, 103, 113
average overtopping rate, 202
B
backscattered component, 331
backshore, 1, 13, 106, 114, 115
barrier
beaches, 17
islands, 15, 17
base discharge, 200
Bathymetry, 2, 6, 9, 38, 68, 70, 102,
165, 323
bay, 7, 13, 15, 68, 143, 144
beach, 1, 42, 115
nourishment, 114, 116, 117
profile, 1, 2, 41, 119, 130
ridges, 17
sands, 12, 14, 31, 58
slope, 8, 50, 53, 301
width, 56
bed
load, 31, 38-40, 51, 55, 108, 215
sédiment, 24, 25, 31, 216
shear stress, 39, 230-232
berm, 42, 189, 160, 190, 196
réduction coefficient, 203
sand, 2
width, 202
bottom particle velocity, 335
boundary layer, 214
Boussinesq
approximation, 333, 335
équation, 334, 335
breaker
line, 42, 57, 58, 61, 62, 102
parameter, 190, 202
zone, 1, 8, 42, 46, 47, 49, 55
breaking point, 51, 187, 336
breakwater, 6, 18, 97, 99, 103, 159,
160
berm, 166
caisson, 161, 167, 279
composite, 161, 164, 237, 246,
256
detached offshore, 159