Fig. 10.7 Comparison of Hs, Tm and 0m predicted from WAM with field measurements.
10.6 Mild-Slope Equation (MSE) Wave Models
In the shallow water environment, it is inévitable to take into account
the variation in sea bottom topography for the wave propagation to
accommodate the wave refraction. In these situations, to simplify the
domain, vertically integrated équations derived from Euler équations are
widely adopted based on the assumption of mildly varying depth of the
seabed. The assumptions which for the dérivation of mild-slope équation
wave model are that of the linear waves and, the water depth is presumed
to be gradually varying. The MSE has three different formulations: namely,
the hyperbolic MSE for a time-dependent wave field; the elliptic MSE; and,
the parabolic MSE for a steady-state wave field.
The elliptic model, put forth by Berkho^L
tion and diffraction, both in deep and |
wave model is principa
be adapted to repres
wave harmonies. Mi
in the région ran
région, some dis
vay fr>
used to stjj
I irregulajfl
equati
i a
1972, describes wave refracv waters. Fhough the MSE
latic waves, it maximation of different
generally employed
>n to the nearshore
earity of waves