1. Introduction
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Fig. 1.6 Diffraction of waves around (a) single breakwater (b) a pair of breakwaters.
1.2.4 Breaking
The waves can break either in the offshore in which case the breaking is
steepness limited or in the nearshore in which case it is “depth limited”.
Transfer of excess of energy from wind to the océan surface in the offshore
facilitate breaking of waves. The waves when propagating from offshore to
the coast undergo the near shore phenomena like, shoaling refraction or
diffraction or a combination of these phenomena. When the waves reach