LIST OF FIGURES
FIGURE
PAGE
1-1
Beach Profile - Related Terms.......................................................................1-3
1-2
Sand Dunes Along the South Shore of Lake Michigan..........................1-4
1-3
Sand Dunes, Honeyman State Park, Oregon................................................ 1-4
1-4
Barrier Beach Island Developed as Récréation Park - Jones
Beach State Park, Long Island, New York...................... 1-6
J-5
Large Waves Breaking Over a Breakwater
...................................
1-8
1-6
Wave Characteristics...................................................................................1-8
1-7
Schematic Diagram of Storm Wave Attack on Beach and Dune .
1-11
1-8
Backshore Damage at Sea Isle City, New Jersey..................................1-1S
1-9
Weir Jetty at Masonboro Inlet, North Carolina.................................. 1-19
1-10
Wrightsville Beach, North Carolina, after Completion of
Beach Restoration and Hurricane Protection Project . . . 1-20
2-1
Approximate Distribution of Océan Surface Wave Energy
Illustrating the Classification of Surface Waves by
Wave Band, Primary Disturbing Force and Primary
Restoring Force............................................................................2-5
2-2
Définition of Terms - Elementary, Sinusoidal, Progressive
Wave...................................................................................................2-8
2-3
Local Fluid Velocities and Accélérations ....................................
2-14
2-4
Water Particle Displacements from Mean Position for
Shallow-Water and Deepwater Waves................................... 2-17
2-5
Formation of Wave Groups by the Addition of Two Sinusoids
Having Different Periods ................................................ 2-26
2-6
Summary - Linear (Airy) Wave Theory - Wave
Characteristics........................................................................... 2-34
2-7
Régions of Validity for Various Wave Théories.................................2-35
2-8
Comparison of Second-Order Stokes' Profile with Linear
Profile..................................................................................................................2-42
2-9
Cnoidal Wave Surface Profiles as a Function of k2........................ 2-50
2-10 Cnoidal Wave Surface Profiles as a Function of k2........................ 2-51
2-11 Relationship Between k2, H/d and T/g/d...............................................2-52
2-12 Relationship Between k2 and L2H/d3.........................................................2-53
2-13
Relationships Between k2 and L2H/d3 and Between (yc-d)/H,
.(yt-d)/H) + 1 and L2H/d3......................................................................... 2-54
2-14 Relationship Between T/g/d y/;/d, H/y^ and L2H/d3........................... 2-55
2-15 Relationship Between C//gy^, H/y^ and L2H/d3................................. 2-56
2-16 Fonctions M and N in Solitary Wave Theory............................................2-61
2-17
Wave Refraction at West Hampton Beach, Long Island,
New York......................................................................................... 2-64
2-18 Refraction Template.............................................................................................2-68
2-19
Changes in Wave Direction and Height Due to Refraction on
Slopes with Straight, Parailel Depth Contours........ 2-70
2-20 Use of the Refraction Template..................................................................2-72
2-21 Refraction Diagram Using R/J Method.........................................................2-74
2-22 Use of Fan-Type Refraction Diagram......................................................... 2-76
2-23
Refraction Along a Straight Beach with Parailel Bottom
Contours......................................................................................... 2-77
xi
FIGURE
PAGE
1-1
Beach Profile - Related Terms.......................................................................1-3
1-2
Sand Dunes Along the South Shore of Lake Michigan..........................1-4
1-3
Sand Dunes, Honeyman State Park, Oregon................................................ 1-4
1-4
Barrier Beach Island Developed as Récréation Park - Jones
Beach State Park, Long Island, New York...................... 1-6
J-5
Large Waves Breaking Over a Breakwater
...................................
1-8
1-6
Wave Characteristics...................................................................................1-8
1-7
Schematic Diagram of Storm Wave Attack on Beach and Dune .
1-11
1-8
Backshore Damage at Sea Isle City, New Jersey..................................1-1S
1-9
Weir Jetty at Masonboro Inlet, North Carolina.................................. 1-19
1-10
Wrightsville Beach, North Carolina, after Completion of
Beach Restoration and Hurricane Protection Project . . . 1-20
2-1
Approximate Distribution of Océan Surface Wave Energy
Illustrating the Classification of Surface Waves by
Wave Band, Primary Disturbing Force and Primary
Restoring Force............................................................................2-5
2-2
Définition of Terms - Elementary, Sinusoidal, Progressive
Wave...................................................................................................2-8
2-3
Local Fluid Velocities and Accélérations ....................................
2-14
2-4
Water Particle Displacements from Mean Position for
Shallow-Water and Deepwater Waves................................... 2-17
2-5
Formation of Wave Groups by the Addition of Two Sinusoids
Having Different Periods ................................................ 2-26
2-6
Summary - Linear (Airy) Wave Theory - Wave
Characteristics........................................................................... 2-34
2-7
Régions of Validity for Various Wave Théories.................................2-35
2-8
Comparison of Second-Order Stokes' Profile with Linear
Profile..................................................................................................................2-42
2-9
Cnoidal Wave Surface Profiles as a Function of k2........................ 2-50
2-10 Cnoidal Wave Surface Profiles as a Function of k2........................ 2-51
2-11 Relationship Between k2, H/d and T/g/d...............................................2-52
2-12 Relationship Between k2 and L2H/d3.........................................................2-53
2-13
Relationships Between k2 and L2H/d3 and Between (yc-d)/H,
.(yt-d)/H) + 1 and L2H/d3......................................................................... 2-54
2-14 Relationship Between T/g/d y/;/d, H/y^ and L2H/d3........................... 2-55
2-15 Relationship Between C//gy^, H/y^ and L2H/d3................................. 2-56
2-16 Fonctions M and N in Solitary Wave Theory............................................2-61
2-17
Wave Refraction at West Hampton Beach, Long Island,
New York......................................................................................... 2-64
2-18 Refraction Template.............................................................................................2-68
2-19
Changes in Wave Direction and Height Due to Refraction on
Slopes with Straight, Parailel Depth Contours........ 2-70
2-20 Use of the Refraction Template..................................................................2-72
2-21 Refraction Diagram Using R/J Method.........................................................2-74
2-22 Use of Fan-Type Refraction Diagram......................................................... 2-76
2-23
Refraction Along a Straight Beach with Parailel Bottom
Contours......................................................................................... 2-77
xi