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3.1.4 Summary (Beach and Shoreface)
- The morphology of coastlines, the slope of the
foreshore zone, and the beach and foreshore
sediments are controlled to a large degree by
waves and wave-induced currents.
- High-energy waves and fine-grained sediments
tend to produce a gentle beach-shelf (equilibrium) profile.
Sand transport by longshore currents generates
zones with net loss or net gain of sand. In the
latter case, sand barriers and seaward migrating
sand ridges (cheniers) develop.
Chapter 3 Coastal and Shallow Sea Sediments
- Prograding coastlines create coarsening-upward
vertical seetions.
Severe storms produce geostrophic bottom CUfrents. These generate, in combination with oscillatory wave motion, siliciclastic or calcareous
(bioclastic) storm beds (tempestites) with distinct proximal-distal trends. Most of them are
reworked by subsequent storms (amalgamation)
or obscured by bioturbation.
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