topography are to a great extent determined by the character of sediment transport
in the coastal zone under the influence of waves and currents; therefore, in the
conditions of extended economical activity at the coast, the scientific knowledge of
the hydro-lithodynamic processes here is extremely important. Calculations of the
sediment transport and deformations of underwater slopes are needed for the
operation of hydro-engineering constructions, developing of the projects of coast
protection, and providing the ecological safety. Constructions of channels for the
ships to enter the ports, trestles for oil pipes, mining of construction materials,
providing safe communications, and recreation regime on the beaches is impossible
without taking the account for the regularities of sediment transport in the
coastal zone.
Let us emphasize the poorly studied aspects in the researches of the coastal zone
dynamics:
• sediment transport in the zone of wave runup in the conditions of permeable
bottom;
• spatial distribution of wave energy due to wave breaking; generation of
infragravity waves and their contribution to the dynamics of sediments;
• interaction of surface waves, sea currents, variations in the morphometric peculiarities of the bottom and sediment transport in the coastal zone; this interaction
implies a feedback between these processes;
• the influence of frequency-angular distributions of spectral energy of the
approaching waves on the transport of bottom sediments;
• transformation of bottom material and interannual changes in its granulometric
composition;
• transport of sediments in the conditions of pebble and mixed (sandy-pebble)
beaches.
Solution of the abovementioned problems is possible only within a multidisciplinary monitoring of the state of environment with inclusion of the improving
instrumental means for measuring parameters of wind waves, currents, bathymetry,
and character of the bottom sediments. In this relation we emphasize the importance
of laboratory experiments. Despite some specific limits, laboratory experiments
allow us to specify, control, and repeatedly reproduce the parameters of the
hydrodynamic environment. In this sense, they are more preferable than the field
experiments. Laboratory experiments are actually the elements of environmental
modeling, whose final results are improved (or developed) physical mechanisms of
the coastal zone dynamics.
Acknowledgement The presented paper was prepared with support of the Russian Science
Foundation (project no. 14-17-00547).
130
R.D. Kosyan and B.V. Divinskiy
in the coastal zone under the influence of waves and currents; therefore, in the
conditions of extended economical activity at the coast, the scientific knowledge of
the hydro-lithodynamic processes here is extremely important. Calculations of the
sediment transport and deformations of underwater slopes are needed for the
operation of hydro-engineering constructions, developing of the projects of coast
protection, and providing the ecological safety. Constructions of channels for the
ships to enter the ports, trestles for oil pipes, mining of construction materials,
providing safe communications, and recreation regime on the beaches is impossible
without taking the account for the regularities of sediment transport in the
coastal zone.
Let us emphasize the poorly studied aspects in the researches of the coastal zone
dynamics:
• sediment transport in the zone of wave runup in the conditions of permeable
bottom;
• spatial distribution of wave energy due to wave breaking; generation of
infragravity waves and their contribution to the dynamics of sediments;
• interaction of surface waves, sea currents, variations in the morphometric peculiarities of the bottom and sediment transport in the coastal zone; this interaction
implies a feedback between these processes;
• the influence of frequency-angular distributions of spectral energy of the
approaching waves on the transport of bottom sediments;
• transformation of bottom material and interannual changes in its granulometric
composition;
• transport of sediments in the conditions of pebble and mixed (sandy-pebble)
beaches.
Solution of the abovementioned problems is possible only within a multidisciplinary monitoring of the state of environment with inclusion of the improving
instrumental means for measuring parameters of wind waves, currents, bathymetry,
and character of the bottom sediments. In this relation we emphasize the importance
of laboratory experiments. Despite some specific limits, laboratory experiments
allow us to specify, control, and repeatedly reproduce the parameters of the
hydrodynamic environment. In this sense, they are more preferable than the field
experiments. Laboratory experiments are actually the elements of environmental
modeling, whose final results are improved (or developed) physical mechanisms of
the coastal zone dynamics.
Acknowledgement The presented paper was prepared with support of the Russian Science
Foundation (project no. 14-17-00547).
130
R.D. Kosyan and B.V. Divinskiy