Modeling of Coastal Morphological Processes References 631
Part C | 28
28.5 Nomenclature
’
wave angle [rad]
b
power in transport relation [–]
c bed
bed celerity [m=s]
dA b =dt initial bar amplitude [m=s]
dXb=dt bar migration [m=s]
–
porosity of seabed [–]
h
depth [m]
h Xb
water depth at bar crest [m]
q x ; q y horizontal components of sediment transport
[m
3
=m=s]
S
total longshore transport [m
3
=s]
s
longshore transport coefficient [m
3
=s=rad]
z b
vertical position of seabottom [m]
References
28.1
J. van de Graaff: Dune erosion during a storm
surge, Coast. Eng. 1(0), 99–134 (1977)
28.2
R. Pelnard-Considere: Essai de theorie de
l’Evolution des Formes de Rivages en Plage
de Sable et de Galets, Les Energies de la Mer:
Compte Rendu Des Quatriemes Journees de
L’hydraulique, Paris Question III, Rapport No. 1,
1956) pp. 289–298, french
28.3
A. Ashton, A.B. Murray, O. Arnoult: Formation of
coastline features by large-scale instabilities induced by high-angle waves, Nature 414(6861),
296–300 (2001)
28.4
H.M. Schuttelaars, H.E. de Swart: Initial formation
of channels and shoals in a short tidal embayment, J. Fluid Mech. 386, 15–42 (1999)
28.5
S.J.M. Hulscher, G.M. van den Brink: Comparison
between predicted and observed sand waves and
sand banks in the North Sea, J. Geophys. Res.
106(C5), 9327–9338 (2001)
28.6
P. Vellinga: Beach and dune erosion during storm
surges, Coast. Eng. 6(4), 361–387 (1982)
28.7
M. Larson, N.C. Kraus, M.R. Bymes: SBEACH:
Numerical Model for Simulating Storm-Induced
Beach Change, Report 2: Numerical Formulation
and Model Tests, Tech. Rep. CERC-89-9 (US Army
Engineer Waterways Experiment Station, Coastal
Engineering Research Center, Vicksburg 1990)
28.8
W.D. Eysink, E.J. Biegel: ISOS*2 Project: Impact of
Sea Level Rise on the Morphology of the Wadden
Sea in the Scope of its Ecological Function, Phase
2 (Delft Hydraulics, Delft 1992)
28.9
M.J.F. Stive, Z.B. Wang: Morphodynamic modeling of tidal basins and coastal inlets. In: Advances
in Coastal Modeling, ed. by V.C. Lakhan (Elsevier,
Amsterdam 2003) pp. 367–392
28.10
D. Roelvink, A. Reniers: A Guide to Modeling
Coastal Morphology, Advances in Coastal and
Ocean Engineering, Vol. 12 (World Scientific, Singapore 2011) p. 292
28.11
M. Szmytkiewicz, J. Biegowski, L.M. Kaczmarek,
T. Okrój, R. Ostrowski, Z. Pruszak, G. Różyńsky,
M. Skaja: Coastline changes nearby harbour structures: Comparative analysis of one-line models versus field data, Coast. Eng. 40(2), 119–139
(2000)
28.12
R.G. Dean: Beach nourishment: Design principles,
Proc. 23rd Int. Conf. Coast. Eng. (1992) pp. 301–349
28.13
M.C. Buijsman, P. Ruggiero, G.M. Kaminsky: Sensitivity of shoreline change predictions to wave
climate variability along the southwest Washington coast, USA, Proc. Conf. Coast. Dyn. (2001)
pp. 617–626
28.14
A. Ashton, B. Murray: High-angle wave instability and emergent shoreline shapes: 1. Modeling of
sand waves, flying spits, and capes, J. Geophys.
Res. 111, F04011 (2006)
28.15
J.A. Roelvink, I. Broker: Coastal profile models,
Coast. Eng. 21, 163–191 (1993)
28.16
J.A. Roelvink, T.J.G.P. Meijer, K. Houwman,
R. Bakker, R. Spanhoff: Field validation and application of a coastal profile model, Proc. Coast.
Dyn. (1995) pp. 818–828
28.17
B.G. Ruessink, Y. Kuriyama, A.J.H.M. Reniers,
J.A. Roelvink, D.J.R. Walstra: Modeling crossshore sandbar behavior on the timescale of
weeks, J. Geophys. Res. 112(F3), F03010 (2007)
28.18
N. Booij, R.C. Ris, L.H. Holthuijsen: A thirdgeneration wave model for coastal regions - 1.
Model description and validation, J. Geophys.
Res. 104(C4), 7649–7666 (1999)
28.19
R.C. Ris, L.H. Holthuijsen, N. Booij: A third-generation wave model for coastal regions - 2. Verification, J. Geophys. Res. 104(C4), 7667–7681 (1999)
28.20
G.R. Lesser, J.A. Roelvink, J.A.T.M. van Kester,
G.S. Stelling: Development and validation of
a three-dimensional morphological model,
Coast. Eng. 51(8–9), 883–915 (2004)
28.21
R. Ranasinghe, C. Pattiaratchi, G. Masselink:
A morphodynamic model to simulate the seasonal closure of tidal inlets, Coast. Eng. 37(1), 1–36
(1999)
28.22
A.J.H.M. Reniers, J.A. Roelvink, E.B. Thornton:
Morphodynamic modeling of an embayed beach
under wave group forcing, J. Geophys. Res.
109(C1), 10.1029/2002JC001586 (2004)
28.23
M.W.J. Smit, A.J.H.M. Reniers, B.G. Ruessink,
J.A. Roelvink: The morphological response of
a nearshore double sandbar system to constant wave forcing, Coast. Eng. 55(10), 761–770
(2008)
28.24
R. Ranasinghe, G. Symonds, K. Black, R. Holman: Morphodynamics of intermediate beaches:
A video imaging and numerical modelling study,
Coast. Eng. 51, 629–655 (2004)
Part C | 28
28.5 Nomenclature
’
wave angle [rad]
b
power in transport relation [–]
c bed
bed celerity [m=s]
dA b =dt initial bar amplitude [m=s]
dXb=dt bar migration [m=s]
–
porosity of seabed [–]
h
depth [m]
h Xb
water depth at bar crest [m]
q x ; q y horizontal components of sediment transport
[m
3
=m=s]
S
total longshore transport [m
3
=s]
s
longshore transport coefficient [m
3
=s=rad]
z b
vertical position of seabottom [m]
References
28.1
J. van de Graaff: Dune erosion during a storm
surge, Coast. Eng. 1(0), 99–134 (1977)
28.2
R. Pelnard-Considere: Essai de theorie de
l’Evolution des Formes de Rivages en Plage
de Sable et de Galets, Les Energies de la Mer:
Compte Rendu Des Quatriemes Journees de
L’hydraulique, Paris Question III, Rapport No. 1,
1956) pp. 289–298, french
28.3
A. Ashton, A.B. Murray, O. Arnoult: Formation of
coastline features by large-scale instabilities induced by high-angle waves, Nature 414(6861),
296–300 (2001)
28.4
H.M. Schuttelaars, H.E. de Swart: Initial formation
of channels and shoals in a short tidal embayment, J. Fluid Mech. 386, 15–42 (1999)
28.5
S.J.M. Hulscher, G.M. van den Brink: Comparison
between predicted and observed sand waves and
sand banks in the North Sea, J. Geophys. Res.
106(C5), 9327–9338 (2001)
28.6
P. Vellinga: Beach and dune erosion during storm
surges, Coast. Eng. 6(4), 361–387 (1982)
28.7
M. Larson, N.C. Kraus, M.R. Bymes: SBEACH:
Numerical Model for Simulating Storm-Induced
Beach Change, Report 2: Numerical Formulation
and Model Tests, Tech. Rep. CERC-89-9 (US Army
Engineer Waterways Experiment Station, Coastal
Engineering Research Center, Vicksburg 1990)
28.8
W.D. Eysink, E.J. Biegel: ISOS*2 Project: Impact of
Sea Level Rise on the Morphology of the Wadden
Sea in the Scope of its Ecological Function, Phase
2 (Delft Hydraulics, Delft 1992)
28.9
M.J.F. Stive, Z.B. Wang: Morphodynamic modeling of tidal basins and coastal inlets. In: Advances
in Coastal Modeling, ed. by V.C. Lakhan (Elsevier,
Amsterdam 2003) pp. 367–392
28.10
D. Roelvink, A. Reniers: A Guide to Modeling
Coastal Morphology, Advances in Coastal and
Ocean Engineering, Vol. 12 (World Scientific, Singapore 2011) p. 292
28.11
M. Szmytkiewicz, J. Biegowski, L.M. Kaczmarek,
T. Okrój, R. Ostrowski, Z. Pruszak, G. Różyńsky,
M. Skaja: Coastline changes nearby harbour structures: Comparative analysis of one-line models versus field data, Coast. Eng. 40(2), 119–139
(2000)
28.12
R.G. Dean: Beach nourishment: Design principles,
Proc. 23rd Int. Conf. Coast. Eng. (1992) pp. 301–349
28.13
M.C. Buijsman, P. Ruggiero, G.M. Kaminsky: Sensitivity of shoreline change predictions to wave
climate variability along the southwest Washington coast, USA, Proc. Conf. Coast. Dyn. (2001)
pp. 617–626
28.14
A. Ashton, B. Murray: High-angle wave instability and emergent shoreline shapes: 1. Modeling of
sand waves, flying spits, and capes, J. Geophys.
Res. 111, F04011 (2006)
28.15
J.A. Roelvink, I. Broker: Coastal profile models,
Coast. Eng. 21, 163–191 (1993)
28.16
J.A. Roelvink, T.J.G.P. Meijer, K. Houwman,
R. Bakker, R. Spanhoff: Field validation and application of a coastal profile model, Proc. Coast.
Dyn. (1995) pp. 818–828
28.17
B.G. Ruessink, Y. Kuriyama, A.J.H.M. Reniers,
J.A. Roelvink, D.J.R. Walstra: Modeling crossshore sandbar behavior on the timescale of
weeks, J. Geophys. Res. 112(F3), F03010 (2007)
28.18
N. Booij, R.C. Ris, L.H. Holthuijsen: A thirdgeneration wave model for coastal regions - 1.
Model description and validation, J. Geophys.
Res. 104(C4), 7649–7666 (1999)
28.19
R.C. Ris, L.H. Holthuijsen, N. Booij: A third-generation wave model for coastal regions - 2. Verification, J. Geophys. Res. 104(C4), 7667–7681 (1999)
28.20
G.R. Lesser, J.A. Roelvink, J.A.T.M. van Kester,
G.S. Stelling: Development and validation of
a three-dimensional morphological model,
Coast. Eng. 51(8–9), 883–915 (2004)
28.21
R. Ranasinghe, C. Pattiaratchi, G. Masselink:
A morphodynamic model to simulate the seasonal closure of tidal inlets, Coast. Eng. 37(1), 1–36
(1999)
28.22
A.J.H.M. Reniers, J.A. Roelvink, E.B. Thornton:
Morphodynamic modeling of an embayed beach
under wave group forcing, J. Geophys. Res.
109(C1), 10.1029/2002JC001586 (2004)
28.23
M.W.J. Smit, A.J.H.M. Reniers, B.G. Ruessink,
J.A. Roelvink: The morphological response of
a nearshore double sandbar system to constant wave forcing, Coast. Eng. 55(10), 761–770
(2008)
28.24
R. Ranasinghe, G. Symonds, K. Black, R. Holman: Morphodynamics of intermediate beaches:
A video imaging and numerical modelling study,
Coast. Eng. 51, 629–655 (2004)