Modeling of Coastal Waves and Hydrodynamics References 609
Part C | 27
27.9
H.L. Tolman: User manual and system documentation of WAVEWATCH-III. Version 1.15.
NOAA/NWS/NCEP/OMB Technical Note 151, http://
polar.ncep.noaa.gov/mmab/papers/tn151/OMB_151.
pdf (1997)
27.10 G.J. Komen, L. Cavaleri, M. Donelan, K. Hasselmannn, S. Hasselmannn, P.A.E.M. Janssen: Dynamics and Modeling of Ocean Waves (Cambridge
Univ. Press, Cambridge 1994)
27.11 S. Wornom, D.J.S. Welsh, K.W. Bedford: On coupling the SWAN and WAM wave models for accurate
nearshore wave predictions, Coast. Eng. J. 43(3),
161–201 (2001)
27.12 N. Booij, R.C. Ris, L.H. Holthuijsen: A third-generation wave model for coastal regions, Part I:
Model description and validation, J. Geophys. Res.
104(C4), 7649–7666 (1999)
27.13 K. Hasselmann, T.P. Barnett, E. Bouws, H. Carlson, D.E. Cartwright, K. Enke, J.A. Ewing, H. Gienapp, D.E. Hasselmann, P. Kruseman, A. Meerburg,
P. Müller, D.J. Olbers, K. Richter, W. Sell, H. Walden:
Measurements of Wind–Wave Growth and Swell
Decay During the Joint North Sea Wave Project (JONSWAP) (Deutsches Hydrographisches Institut, Hamburg 1973)
27.14 L. Cavaleri, J.-H.G.M. Alves, F. Ardhuin, A. Babanin,
M. Banner, K. Belibassakis, M. Benoit, M. Donelan,
J. Groeneweg, T.H.C. Herbers, P. Hwang,
P.A.E.M. Janssen, T. Janssen, I.V. Lavrenov,
R. Magne, J. Monbaliu, M. Onorato, V. Polnikov,
D. Resio, W.E. Rogers, A. Sheremet, J. McKee Smith,
H.L. Tolman, G. van Vledder, J. Wolf, I. Young: Wave
modelling – The state of the art, Prog. Oceanogr.
75, 603–674 (2007)
27.15 W.E. Rogers, J.M. Kaihatu, H.A.H. Petit, N. Booij,
L.H. Holthuijsen: Diffusion reduction in an arbitrary
scale third generation wind wave model, Ocean
Eng. 29, 1357–1390 (2002)
27.16 J.M. Smith: Full-plane STWAVE with bottom friction: II. Model overview. CHETN-I-75, http://chl.
erdc.usace.army.mil/chetn (2007)
27.17 J.T. Kirby, R.A. Dalrymple: A parabolic equation
for the combined refraction-diffraction of Stokes
waves by mildly varying topography, J. Fluid Mech.
136, 453–466 (1983)
27.18 J.T. Kirby, R.A. Dalrymple: Combined Refraction/Diffraction Model REF/DIF 1, Version 2.5. Documentation and User’s Manual, Vol. Res. Rep.
No. CACR-94-22 (Center for Applied Coastal Research, Department of Civil Engineering, University
of Delaware, Newark 1994)
27.19 M.H. Freilich, R.T. Guza: Nonlinear effects on shoaling surface gravity waves, Philos. Trans. R. Soc. A
311, 1–41 (1984)
27.20 Y. Agnon, A. Sheremet, J. Gonsalves, M. Stiassnie:
Nonlinear evolution of a unidirectional shoaling
wave field, Coast. Eng. 20, 29–58 (1993)
27.21 J.M. Kaihatu, J.T. Kirby: Nonlinear transformation of
waves in finite water depth, Phys. Fluids 7, 1903–
1914 (1995)
27.22 T.T. Janssen, T.H.C. Herbers, J.A. Battjes: Generalized evolution equations for nonlinear surface
gravity waves over two-dimensional topography,
J. Fluid Mech. 552, 393–418 (2006)
27.23 J.M. Kaihatu: Frequency domain models in the
nearshore and surf zones. In: Advances in Coastal
Modeling, ed. by V.C. Lakhan (Elsevier, Amsterdam
2003)
27.24 J.M. Kaihatu: Improvement of parabolic nonlinear dispersive wave model, J. Waterw. Port Coast.
Ocean Eng. 127, 113–121 (2001)
27.25 Y. Agnon, A. Sheremet: Stochastic nonlinear modeling of directional spectra, J. Fluid Mech. 345,
79–99 (1997)
27.26 J.M. Kaihatu, J. Veeramony, K.L. Edwards, J.T. Kirby:
Asymptotic behavior of frequency and wavenumber spectra of nearshore shoaling and breaking
waves, J. Geophys. Res. 112, C06016 (2007)
27.27 T.H.C. Herbers, M.C. Burton: Nonlinear shoaling of
directionally spread waves on a beach, J. Geophys.
Res. 102, 21101–21114 (1997)
27.28 D. Peregrine: Long waves on a beach, J. Fluid Mech.
27(4), 815–827 (1967)
27.29 S. Elgar, R.T. Guza: Shoaling gravity waves: A comparison between data, linear finite depth theory
and a nonlinear model, J. Fluid Mech. 158, 47–70
(1985)
27.30 D.G. Goring: Tsunamis – The Propagation of Long
Waves Onto a Shelf, Ph.D. Thesis (California Institute
of Technology, Pasadena 1978)
27.31 P.L.-F. Liu, S.B. Yoon, J.T. Kirby: Nonlinear refraction-diffraction of waves in shallow water, J. Fluid
Mech. 153, 184–201 (1985)
27.32 O. Nwogu: Alternative form of Boussinesq equations for nearshore wave propagation, J. Waterw.
Port Coast. Ocean Eng. 119(6), 618–638 (1993)
27.33 P.A. Madsen, R. Murray, O.R. Sørensen: A new form
of the Boussinesq equations with improved linear dispersion characteristics (Part 1), Coast. Eng. 15,
371–388 (1991)
27.34 Y. Chen, P.L.-F. Liu: The unified Kadomtsev-Petviashvili equation for interfacial waves, J. Fluid
Mech. 288, 383–408 (1995)
27.35 J.M. Witting: A unified model for evolution of nonlinear water waves, J. Comput. Phys. 56, 203–236
(1984)
27.36 Q. Chen, P.A. Madsen, H.A. Schaffer, D.R. Basco:
Wave-current interaction based on an enhanced
Boussinesq approach, Coast. Eng. 33, 11–39 (1998)
27.37 P.L.-F. Liu: Model equations for wave propagation
from deep to shallow water. In: Advances in Coastal
and Ocean Engineering, Vol. 1, ed. by P.L.-F. Liu
(World Sciectific, Singapore 1994)
27.38 G. Wei, J.T. Kirby, S.T. Grilli, R. Subramanya: A fully
nonlinear Boussinesq model for surface waves. I.
Highly nonlinear, unsteady waves, J. Fluid Mech.
294, 71–92 (1995)
27.39 P. Lynett, P.L.-F. Liu: A numerical study of submarine landslide generated waves and runup, Proc. R.
Soc. Lond. A 458, 2885–2910 (2002)
27.40 Q. Chen, R.A. Dalrymple, J.T. Kirby, A. Kennedy,
M.C. Haller: Boussinesq modeling of a rip current system, J. Geophys. Res. 104(C9), 20617–20637
(1999)
Part C | 27
27.9
H.L. Tolman: User manual and system documentation of WAVEWATCH-III. Version 1.15.
NOAA/NWS/NCEP/OMB Technical Note 151, http://
polar.ncep.noaa.gov/mmab/papers/tn151/OMB_151.
pdf (1997)
27.10 G.J. Komen, L. Cavaleri, M. Donelan, K. Hasselmannn, S. Hasselmannn, P.A.E.M. Janssen: Dynamics and Modeling of Ocean Waves (Cambridge
Univ. Press, Cambridge 1994)
27.11 S. Wornom, D.J.S. Welsh, K.W. Bedford: On coupling the SWAN and WAM wave models for accurate
nearshore wave predictions, Coast. Eng. J. 43(3),
161–201 (2001)
27.12 N. Booij, R.C. Ris, L.H. Holthuijsen: A third-generation wave model for coastal regions, Part I:
Model description and validation, J. Geophys. Res.
104(C4), 7649–7666 (1999)
27.13 K. Hasselmann, T.P. Barnett, E. Bouws, H. Carlson, D.E. Cartwright, K. Enke, J.A. Ewing, H. Gienapp, D.E. Hasselmann, P. Kruseman, A. Meerburg,
P. Müller, D.J. Olbers, K. Richter, W. Sell, H. Walden:
Measurements of Wind–Wave Growth and Swell
Decay During the Joint North Sea Wave Project (JONSWAP) (Deutsches Hydrographisches Institut, Hamburg 1973)
27.14 L. Cavaleri, J.-H.G.M. Alves, F. Ardhuin, A. Babanin,
M. Banner, K. Belibassakis, M. Benoit, M. Donelan,
J. Groeneweg, T.H.C. Herbers, P. Hwang,
P.A.E.M. Janssen, T. Janssen, I.V. Lavrenov,
R. Magne, J. Monbaliu, M. Onorato, V. Polnikov,
D. Resio, W.E. Rogers, A. Sheremet, J. McKee Smith,
H.L. Tolman, G. van Vledder, J. Wolf, I. Young: Wave
modelling – The state of the art, Prog. Oceanogr.
75, 603–674 (2007)
27.15 W.E. Rogers, J.M. Kaihatu, H.A.H. Petit, N. Booij,
L.H. Holthuijsen: Diffusion reduction in an arbitrary
scale third generation wind wave model, Ocean
Eng. 29, 1357–1390 (2002)
27.16 J.M. Smith: Full-plane STWAVE with bottom friction: II. Model overview. CHETN-I-75, http://chl.
erdc.usace.army.mil/chetn (2007)
27.17 J.T. Kirby, R.A. Dalrymple: A parabolic equation
for the combined refraction-diffraction of Stokes
waves by mildly varying topography, J. Fluid Mech.
136, 453–466 (1983)
27.18 J.T. Kirby, R.A. Dalrymple: Combined Refraction/Diffraction Model REF/DIF 1, Version 2.5. Documentation and User’s Manual, Vol. Res. Rep.
No. CACR-94-22 (Center for Applied Coastal Research, Department of Civil Engineering, University
of Delaware, Newark 1994)
27.19 M.H. Freilich, R.T. Guza: Nonlinear effects on shoaling surface gravity waves, Philos. Trans. R. Soc. A
311, 1–41 (1984)
27.20 Y. Agnon, A. Sheremet, J. Gonsalves, M. Stiassnie:
Nonlinear evolution of a unidirectional shoaling
wave field, Coast. Eng. 20, 29–58 (1993)
27.21 J.M. Kaihatu, J.T. Kirby: Nonlinear transformation of
waves in finite water depth, Phys. Fluids 7, 1903–
1914 (1995)
27.22 T.T. Janssen, T.H.C. Herbers, J.A. Battjes: Generalized evolution equations for nonlinear surface
gravity waves over two-dimensional topography,
J. Fluid Mech. 552, 393–418 (2006)
27.23 J.M. Kaihatu: Frequency domain models in the
nearshore and surf zones. In: Advances in Coastal
Modeling, ed. by V.C. Lakhan (Elsevier, Amsterdam
2003)
27.24 J.M. Kaihatu: Improvement of parabolic nonlinear dispersive wave model, J. Waterw. Port Coast.
Ocean Eng. 127, 113–121 (2001)
27.25 Y. Agnon, A. Sheremet: Stochastic nonlinear modeling of directional spectra, J. Fluid Mech. 345,
79–99 (1997)
27.26 J.M. Kaihatu, J. Veeramony, K.L. Edwards, J.T. Kirby:
Asymptotic behavior of frequency and wavenumber spectra of nearshore shoaling and breaking
waves, J. Geophys. Res. 112, C06016 (2007)
27.27 T.H.C. Herbers, M.C. Burton: Nonlinear shoaling of
directionally spread waves on a beach, J. Geophys.
Res. 102, 21101–21114 (1997)
27.28 D. Peregrine: Long waves on a beach, J. Fluid Mech.
27(4), 815–827 (1967)
27.29 S. Elgar, R.T. Guza: Shoaling gravity waves: A comparison between data, linear finite depth theory
and a nonlinear model, J. Fluid Mech. 158, 47–70
(1985)
27.30 D.G. Goring: Tsunamis – The Propagation of Long
Waves Onto a Shelf, Ph.D. Thesis (California Institute
of Technology, Pasadena 1978)
27.31 P.L.-F. Liu, S.B. Yoon, J.T. Kirby: Nonlinear refraction-diffraction of waves in shallow water, J. Fluid
Mech. 153, 184–201 (1985)
27.32 O. Nwogu: Alternative form of Boussinesq equations for nearshore wave propagation, J. Waterw.
Port Coast. Ocean Eng. 119(6), 618–638 (1993)
27.33 P.A. Madsen, R. Murray, O.R. Sørensen: A new form
of the Boussinesq equations with improved linear dispersion characteristics (Part 1), Coast. Eng. 15,
371–388 (1991)
27.34 Y. Chen, P.L.-F. Liu: The unified Kadomtsev-Petviashvili equation for interfacial waves, J. Fluid
Mech. 288, 383–408 (1995)
27.35 J.M. Witting: A unified model for evolution of nonlinear water waves, J. Comput. Phys. 56, 203–236
(1984)
27.36 Q. Chen, P.A. Madsen, H.A. Schaffer, D.R. Basco:
Wave-current interaction based on an enhanced
Boussinesq approach, Coast. Eng. 33, 11–39 (1998)
27.37 P.L.-F. Liu: Model equations for wave propagation
from deep to shallow water. In: Advances in Coastal
and Ocean Engineering, Vol. 1, ed. by P.L.-F. Liu
(World Sciectific, Singapore 1994)
27.38 G. Wei, J.T. Kirby, S.T. Grilli, R. Subramanya: A fully
nonlinear Boussinesq model for surface waves. I.
Highly nonlinear, unsteady waves, J. Fluid Mech.
294, 71–92 (1995)
27.39 P. Lynett, P.L.-F. Liu: A numerical study of submarine landslide generated waves and runup, Proc. R.
Soc. Lond. A 458, 2885–2910 (2002)
27.40 Q. Chen, R.A. Dalrymple, J.T. Kirby, A. Kennedy,
M.C. Haller: Boussinesq modeling of a rip current system, J. Geophys. Res. 104(C9), 20617–20637
(1999)