Subject Index
wave generation
fully developed sea 92
wind generation 89, 90
wave geography 99
Atlantic Ocean 99, 100
Indian Ocean 99, 100, 237
Pacific Ocean 99, 100
wave groups 87
wave height 82, 145
maximum 96, 132, 146
mean 95, 145, 146
root mean square 145, 146
significant 95, 146, 147
wave induced particle displacements
117, 118
wavelength 82, 107-109
wave number 82, 109
wave period 82, 108, 109
mean 96
wave pressure 118, 119, 503-505
wave ray 120, 124
wave refraction 124-127, 432
wave set-up and set-down 248, 249
wave steepness 82, 107, 108
wave types
cap illary 81
cnoidal 122
edge waves 251
freak 100
gravity 81
internal 80, 183-200
Kelvin 176, 233, 318, 319
nonlinear 120-124
progressive 80
Rossby 106, 233
seiches 81, 103-105
small amplitude 108
solitary 123
soliton 124, 196, 197, 199
standing 80
Stokes' type 121, 122
surface 80
swell 92
tsunamis 81,101-103
wind-induced 80, 89-98
wave velocity
group velocity 86-88, 113, 126
559
Moens-Korteweg 386
of internal waves 192-194
orbital velocity 115, 116, 502, 503
phase velocity 86, 113, 189, 190,
199, 237
Weber number 36, 325
Weddell Sea 6
Wiener- Khinchine Theorem 329
wind
anticyclonic 203
cyclonic 202
duration 92
easterlies 206
fetch 92
geostrophic 203
land breeze 205
monsoon 206
sea breeze 204
speed 92, 202
stress 209, 239
trade 205, 210
westerlies 205, 210
White Sea 199
Yangtze River 395, 400, 451
yellow substances 13
Zaire River 406, 407, 409
Zhukovskii (or J oukowsky) 61