Subject Index
roughness length 46
Rouse profile 394
Russell, S. 123
salinity 5, 6, 288, 289, 294
salt fingers 284-286
Sargasso Sea 211
seagrasses 446, 450
sea surface temperature 226, 227, 230
seaweeds 446
forces on kelps 448-450
wave attenuation 447
sediment transport 297, 427
cross-shore 297-299
in estuaries 392-397
longshore 299-302
sediment budget 302-304
separation of variable method 500
Severn River 135
sheltering of surface waves by islands
352
similarity principles 324
Snel, W. 124
Snel's law 125
span 61, 63
specific weight 7
spectrum
cross-spectrum 313
Garrett and Munk 196
frequency 96, 329, 330
JONSWAP 150-152
multipeak 152-154
Pierson-Moskowitz 150-152
Phillips 151
rotary 333
stability of water mass 185
statistical moments 334
steakline 24
stiffness 346
St. Lawrence River 406
strength 343, 346
compressive 347
tensile 347
Stokes, G.G. 121, 486
Stokes breaking criteria 129
Stokes' formula for drag 68, 69
storm surges 105, 106
strain 338
Strait of Gibraltar 286, 361
stream function 491, 495
streamline 24. 492, 493, 496
streamline body 49
stress in liquid
turbulent 74
.557
viscous 7, 44, 70, 214, 379, 490
stress in material
allowable 346
bending 343-346, 435
compressive 338
normal 338
shear 338, 340
tensile 338
ultimate 346, 435
suloy 199
surface displacement 82
surface tension 9-11
surf similarity parameter 131
surf zone 134, 245
suspended particles 13, 14
particle distribution 15
Sverdrup, H.U. 95, 213
Sverdrup mechanism 218, 236
Sverdrup units (Sv) 21:3
system of units (SI) 473-478
Taylor, G.I. 268
Taylor series 509
teleconnections 230
temperature degree
Celsius 475
Fahrenheit 475
Kelvin 475
terminal velocity 67-69, 461
thermocline 183, 227
thermohaline circulation 221
thrust 369, 370
tidal flats 426-428
salinity 427-428
sedimentation 427-28
water motion 426-427
tidal prism method 289, 434
tides 80, 155-181
amphidromic point 174
amphidromic system 174-178
aphelion 166
apogee 166
roughness length 46
Rouse profile 394
Russell, S. 123
salinity 5, 6, 288, 289, 294
salt fingers 284-286
Sargasso Sea 211
seagrasses 446, 450
sea surface temperature 226, 227, 230
seaweeds 446
forces on kelps 448-450
wave attenuation 447
sediment transport 297, 427
cross-shore 297-299
in estuaries 392-397
longshore 299-302
sediment budget 302-304
separation of variable method 500
Severn River 135
sheltering of surface waves by islands
352
similarity principles 324
Snel, W. 124
Snel's law 125
span 61, 63
specific weight 7
spectrum
cross-spectrum 313
Garrett and Munk 196
frequency 96, 329, 330
JONSWAP 150-152
multipeak 152-154
Pierson-Moskowitz 150-152
Phillips 151
rotary 333
stability of water mass 185
statistical moments 334
steakline 24
stiffness 346
St. Lawrence River 406
strength 343, 346
compressive 347
tensile 347
Stokes, G.G. 121, 486
Stokes breaking criteria 129
Stokes' formula for drag 68, 69
storm surges 105, 106
strain 338
Strait of Gibraltar 286, 361
stream function 491, 495
streamline 24. 492, 493, 496
streamline body 49
stress in liquid
turbulent 74
.557
viscous 7, 44, 70, 214, 379, 490
stress in material
allowable 346
bending 343-346, 435
compressive 338
normal 338
shear 338, 340
tensile 338
ultimate 346, 435
suloy 199
surface displacement 82
surface tension 9-11
surf similarity parameter 131
surf zone 134, 245
suspended particles 13, 14
particle distribution 15
Sverdrup, H.U. 95, 213
Sverdrup mechanism 218, 236
Sverdrup units (Sv) 21:3
system of units (SI) 473-478
Taylor, G.I. 268
Taylor series 509
teleconnections 230
temperature degree
Celsius 475
Fahrenheit 475
Kelvin 475
terminal velocity 67-69, 461
thermocline 183, 227
thermohaline circulation 221
thrust 369, 370
tidal flats 426-428
salinity 427-428
sedimentation 427-28
water motion 426-427
tidal prism method 289, 434
tides 80, 155-181
amphidromic point 174
amphidromic system 174-178
aphelion 166
apogee 166
