Subject Index
deformation radius 239, 240
delta function 272
density
biological material 351, 352, 354
effective density 22
water density 4-7
Descartes, R. 17
diffusion 253-279
Brownian motion 255
coefficient of molecular diffusion
256, 279, 280
coefficient of turbulent diffusion
264-267, 393, 416, 458
double 284-286
molecular 254, 258, 259
random walk 255, 276, 399, 400
solution of diffusion equation 271279
tracers 282
turbulent 254, 263
dilatation 340
dimensional analysis 319, 324
Buckingham IT Theorem 320, 321
Dirac delta function 272
directional spreading function 98
dispersion 267-270, 279, 280, 400
coefficient 268, 270, 280, 399, 401
in es t uaries 397
of coral eggs 415-416
dispersion relation 86, 109-111, 189,
193
displacement thickness 46
dissolved gases 12
distance index 380
divergence operator 29
doldrums 219
Doppler effect 309
drag coefficient 53, 140, 209, 354, 363,
364, 421, 425
Ekman, V,W, 213
Ekman layer 215,216
Ekman mass transport 217
Ekman pumping 217
Ekman spiral flow 213-217
elastic beam 343-346
elevation head 30
553
El Nino 106, 224-234, 242, 318, 319,
456
El Nino and Southern Oscillation
(ENSO) 224-229
event of (1982-1983) 229-231
observation 229, 231, 232
phases 226, 227
prediction models 232-234
Southern Oscillation Index 225,
230
energy 80
flux 88
kinetic 30
potential 30, 464
pressure 30
Enewetak Atoll 282, 434
English Channel 178, 463
ERFEN 224
error function 273, 282, 512
equation
advection-diffusion 264, 274, 393,
400, 415, 457
Bernoulli 29, 32, 50, 487, 496
Boussinesq 122, 264
Crocco 488
Darcy-Weisbach 75
Euler 29, 30, 210, 485, 486
Fick 257-260, 267
Hagen-Poiseuille 71
Knutsen 307
Korteweg-de- Vries (K-dV) 122,
124, 197
Laplace 491, 495, 497, 499
mass conservation 27, 29, 38, 483,
484, 489, 491, 495, 497
momentum conservation 29, 30,
484,485
Morison 141, 142
N avier-Stokes 30, 292, 369, 486,
488
of state 6
primitive 222
refraction-diffraction 430
Reynolds 38
Sverdrup 219
wave 386
equipotential lines 493