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Contents
2.5.2 Non-Slip Condition and Boundary Layer Thickness
40
2.5.3 Laminar Boundary Layer. .
41
2.5.4 Turbulent Boundary Layer .
43
2.6 Forces Imposed by Fluid Flow
48
2.6.1 Introduction.
48
2.6.2 Drag Force .
50
2.6.3 Lift Force . .
59
2.6.4 Inertia Force.
63
2.6.5 Bodies Falling in Fluid
67
2.7 Laminar and Turbulent Flows in Ducts
69
2.7.1 Introduction.......
69
2.7.2 Laminar Flow in Ducts.
2.7.3 Turbulent Flow in Ducts
70
73
Part II: Oceanic Hydrodynamic Processes
77
3 An Introduction to Surface Waves
3.1 Introduction.......
3.2 Nature of Wave Motion .. .
3.3 Types of Waves . . . . . . .
3.4 Basic Wave Characteristics.
3.4.1 Definition of Surface Wave Dimensions
3.4.2 Orbital Motion of Water Particles .
3.4.3 Phase and Group Velocities . . . .
3.5 Wind-Generated Waves . . . . . . . . . . .
3.5.1 How Does Wind Generate Waves? .
3.5.2 Fetch and Duration Limited Wave Growth
79
79
79
80
82
82
84
86
89
89
90
3.5.3 Parameters and Functions of Wind-Induced Waves
94
3.5.4 Geography of Waves
99
3.6 Tsunamis ..
3.7 Seiches....
3.8 Storm Surges
3.9 Rossby Waves
101
103
105
106
4 How to Determine Wave Parameters
107
4.1 Introduction..........................
107
4.2 Wave Parameters Based on Small Amplitude Wave Theory
108
4.2.1 Introductory Remarks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
108
4.2.2 Practical Calculation Formulas for Constant Water Depth 109
4.2.3 Higher Order Wave Theories.
120
4.2.4 Wave Shoaling and Refraction
124
4.2.5 Wave Diffraction . . . . . . .
128
4.2.6 Wave Breaking . . . . . . . .
129
4.2.7 Boundary Layer Induced by Waves
136
4.2.8 Forces Induced by Waves. . . . . .
140