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J.S.Smith
Almost half the total length of coastline in the area of study consists of some
form of sand accumulation. Most of these sandy coastlines take the form of extensive
systems several kilometres long. The bayhead beach with its sheltering headlands is
rare. Major rivers also cross these lowland coasts and invariably produce dynamic spit,
bar and beach features. With high tidal ranges (3 to 5 m. range) and periods of strong
wave action, the open beach environments are exposed to relatively high energy
conditions. Beach and nearshore processes are characteristically variable in direction
and strength. Nevertheless, it is possible to recognise a general north-going direction
of coastal processes on the east coast and a west-going direction along the north
(Moray Firth) coast. The east coast (North Sea coast) tends to have narrower beach,
dune and links forms. The characteristic features are linear and essentially parallel to
the general trend of the coastline. Against this trend, dune ridges and erosion hollows
are normally oblique and it is the intersection of these oblique trend lines with the
general parallelism of the main dune and beach features that produces variety and
complexity into the beach/dune/links topography. On the north coast the characteristic
form is the strandplain which has been formed in extensive low-lying basins by a
falling sea level. Dunes and links tend to stretch further inland over raised shoreline
basements which are usually composed of shingle. Another contrast between the north
and east coasts is in the presence of shingle. Shingle normally forms the backshore
material of most Moray Firth beaches whereas shingle storm beaches are almost
unknown except as cliff-foot forms on the North Sea coast. There are, however, local
exceptions, e.g. Stonehaven has mainly a gravel and shingle beach.
J.S.Smith
Almost half the total length of coastline in the area of study consists of some
form of sand accumulation. Most of these sandy coastlines take the form of extensive
systems several kilometres long. The bayhead beach with its sheltering headlands is
rare. Major rivers also cross these lowland coasts and invariably produce dynamic spit,
bar and beach features. With high tidal ranges (3 to 5 m. range) and periods of strong
wave action, the open beach environments are exposed to relatively high energy
conditions. Beach and nearshore processes are characteristically variable in direction
and strength. Nevertheless, it is possible to recognise a general north-going direction
of coastal processes on the east coast and a west-going direction along the north
(Moray Firth) coast. The east coast (North Sea coast) tends to have narrower beach,
dune and links forms. The characteristic features are linear and essentially parallel to
the general trend of the coastline. Against this trend, dune ridges and erosion hollows
are normally oblique and it is the intersection of these oblique trend lines with the
general parallelism of the main dune and beach features that produces variety and
complexity into the beach/dune/links topography. On the north coast the characteristic
form is the strandplain which has been formed in extensive low-lying basins by a
falling sea level. Dunes and links tend to stretch further inland over raised shoreline
basements which are usually composed of shingle. Another contrast between the north
and east coasts is in the presence of shingle. Shingle normally forms the backshore
material of most Moray Firth beaches whereas shingle storm beaches are almost
unknown except as cliff-foot forms on the North Sea coast. There are, however, local
exceptions, e.g. Stonehaven has mainly a gravel and shingle beach.