9 Oil-Based Materials and Products
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degradation products and organochlorine pesticides, as well as steroids and vitamin E.
Steroids and vitamin E are then distilled and returned to the oil as natural antioxidants.
The booklet also lists the grades of common natural oils, which have a permeable,
spreadable, dry, and oily feel. Jan Dekker also described the relationship between
iodine value and physical and chemical properties of natural oil: the higher the
unsaturation degree of a fatty acid is, the higher the iodine value, and the easier it is
to be oxidized. The higher the iodine value is, the easier it is to spread, and the better
its permeability into the cuticle [7].
The wettability of oil in cosmetic products is mainly perceived through the senses.
Natural oils used in foods like shea butter is a good moisturizer for the skin. As the
triterpene in the butter resin has an anti-inflammatory function, which can stimulate
the regeneration of fibroblasts, it is a good skin regeneration agent, therefore, the
butter resin has the repairing and protecting function for the skin.
9.1.2 Oil and Fat Products Upgrading
In order to improve the physiological performance and market profit of natural vegetable oils, suppliers extract and concentrate the active substances in the oil and
fat. AAK introduced a product called Lipex 205 [8], a modified butter resin, which
improved the biological activity of unsaponified substance. The fatty acid composition of the liquid butter resin is oleic acid, stearic acid, and 8–10% linoleic acid. The
advantage of Lipex 205 is that it does not crystallize when used as a lipstick, moisturizer, and other high-fat products. Signaline, one of the ISP-Vincience products, is
a patented active substance, mainly consisting of 1,2 glycerol diester produced by
enzymatic hydrolysis of olive oil and 10% fatty alcohols extracted from the wood
wax in Simmonds from California. The efficacy experimental results showed that
Signaline could gradually activate the caloric-dependent enzyme, improve the cell
function and skin differences, enhance the generation of collagen, fiber, and keratin,
enrich the skin fibroblasts, improve the skin’s toughness and elasticity, and reduce
wrinkles [9]. Olive oil is an important starting material for cosmetic ingredients. Fancor extracted unsaponified parts from olive oil as part of the Silk Olea Oil product
[10]. Non-saponifying substances in natural oils are usually the main components
of active substances, and their properties are improved by enrichment. For example,
the activity-based concept of pomegranate ABS is believed to improve skin hydration and enhance skin protection. Atrium-combined octanoic, decanoic, succinate
triglycerides with sesame oil, Triticum vuigare germ oil, and acetate prevents skin
dehydration and inflammation.
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