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At one spot where I was able to leave the boat, macaque monkeys boarded it in
my absence. They raided my lunch and, when I returned, a monkey was sitting on
the deck calmly eating my bag of keropok (Malay fish crackers). In the long run, I
found it better and more efficient to hire local boats and boatmen for work around
open coasts and islands.
Cultural Differences and Language
In order to conduct this type of field research in Malaysia, you have to understand
the diverse cultures and their different values. The primary language throughout
Malaysia is Bahasa Melayu (Malay language). In places frequented by tourists, like
Kuala Lumpur, many people speak some English but most boatmen, usually rural
fishermen or water taxi operators, speak little or none. You have to speak enough
Malay to communicate, although this is sometimes supplemented with lively pantomime and much laughter.
The main ethnic groups in Peninsular Malaysia are Malay, Chinese, and Indian
with fewer Orang Asli. Most coastal people and fishermen are Malay and are the
best boatmen. Malays are Muslim and you must be aware of, and respect, religious
practices and taboos.
In Sarawak and Sabah, Malaysian Borneo (Fig. 5.3), ethnicities are more diverse
than on the peninsula. Malays and Chinese still make up a part of the population but
Indians less so. Here, indigenous tribal people make up a large portion of the
population.
In Sarawak, the coastal people are mostly either Malay or Melanau (also Muslim).
The tribes of the Sarawak interior are loosely grouped under the name Dayak. These
peoples were pagan and mostly head-hunters until around the late 1800s. Their
pride in this ancestry endures, as does their warrior spirit. Tattoos are an important
part of their culture. Most are now Christian (Figs. 5.12, 5.13 and 5.14).
In Sabah, the main coastal groups (generally distributed clockwise around the
Sabah coast) are Brunei, Bajau (also called Bajau Laut), Illanun, Orang Sungai
(mainly in the Kinabatangan River area) and Suluk (east coast Sabah). These are all
Muslim. The main tribes of the interior are the Kadazan-Dusun and the Murut.
Similar to Sarawak, these tribes of interior Sabah used to be head-hunting pagans
but are now mostly Christian.
Tigers and Crocodiles and Cobras…Oh My!
Malaysia is primarily covered by jungle. As such, it is still home to occasional
roaming tigers (only on the peninsula), wild elephants, deadly cobras, pythons, wild
boar, crocodiles and a wide variety of other creatures you would rather not meet
personally. Monkeys are abundant and fun to watch but are sneaky and smart.
They’ll come into your house and forage, if you’re unwise and leave windows open.
P. R. Parham
At one spot where I was able to leave the boat, macaque monkeys boarded it in
my absence. They raided my lunch and, when I returned, a monkey was sitting on
the deck calmly eating my bag of keropok (Malay fish crackers). In the long run, I
found it better and more efficient to hire local boats and boatmen for work around
open coasts and islands.
Cultural Differences and Language
In order to conduct this type of field research in Malaysia, you have to understand
the diverse cultures and their different values. The primary language throughout
Malaysia is Bahasa Melayu (Malay language). In places frequented by tourists, like
Kuala Lumpur, many people speak some English but most boatmen, usually rural
fishermen or water taxi operators, speak little or none. You have to speak enough
Malay to communicate, although this is sometimes supplemented with lively pantomime and much laughter.
The main ethnic groups in Peninsular Malaysia are Malay, Chinese, and Indian
with fewer Orang Asli. Most coastal people and fishermen are Malay and are the
best boatmen. Malays are Muslim and you must be aware of, and respect, religious
practices and taboos.
In Sarawak and Sabah, Malaysian Borneo (Fig. 5.3), ethnicities are more diverse
than on the peninsula. Malays and Chinese still make up a part of the population but
Indians less so. Here, indigenous tribal people make up a large portion of the
population.
In Sarawak, the coastal people are mostly either Malay or Melanau (also Muslim).
The tribes of the Sarawak interior are loosely grouped under the name Dayak. These
peoples were pagan and mostly head-hunters until around the late 1800s. Their
pride in this ancestry endures, as does their warrior spirit. Tattoos are an important
part of their culture. Most are now Christian (Figs. 5.12, 5.13 and 5.14).
In Sabah, the main coastal groups (generally distributed clockwise around the
Sabah coast) are Brunei, Bajau (also called Bajau Laut), Illanun, Orang Sungai
(mainly in the Kinabatangan River area) and Suluk (east coast Sabah). These are all
Muslim. The main tribes of the interior are the Kadazan-Dusun and the Murut.
Similar to Sarawak, these tribes of interior Sabah used to be head-hunting pagans
but are now mostly Christian.
Tigers and Crocodiles and Cobras…Oh My!
Malaysia is primarily covered by jungle. As such, it is still home to occasional
roaming tigers (only on the peninsula), wild elephants, deadly cobras, pythons, wild
boar, crocodiles and a wide variety of other creatures you would rather not meet
personally. Monkeys are abundant and fun to watch but are sneaky and smart.
They’ll come into your house and forage, if you’re unwise and leave windows open.
P. R. Parham