XI
List of Terms
𝐀
Horizontal viscosity.
𝐀 𝐜
Armour crest freeboard of the structure
𝐁
Width of the berm
𝐁 í µíWidth of the horizontally schematized berm
𝐁 í µí°Width of the toe of the structure
𝐜 𝐩𝐥
Plunging coefficient
𝐜 í µí°Surging coefficient
𝐜𝐨𝐭 𝛂𝐝
Cotangent of the slope of the structure downward of the berm
𝐜𝐨𝐭 𝛂𝐞𝐱𝐜𝐥
Mean cotangent of the slope of the structure, without contribution of the berm
𝐜𝐨𝐭 𝛂𝐢𝐧𝐜𝐥
Mean cotangent of the slope of the structure, with contribution of the berm
𝐜𝐨𝐭 𝛂𝐮
Cotangent of the slope of the structure upward of the berm
𝐝
Water depth.
𝐟
Coriolis parameter
𝐠
Gravity acceleration.
𝐆 𝐜
Width of the structure crest
í µíWater depth
𝐡 𝐛
Water depth on the berm
𝐡 𝐝𝐞𝐞𝐩
Water depth at deep water
𝐡 í µí°Water depth on the toe of the structure
𝐇
The local wave height.
𝐇 𝟏𝟎%
Average of the 1/10 of the upper values of the record
𝐇 𝟐%
Average of the 2% of the upper values of the record
𝐇 𝐛
Wave height at the toe of the structure.
𝐇 𝐦
Average height
𝐇 𝐦𝟎
The spectral significant wave height.
𝐇 𝐦𝟎 𝐝𝐞𝐞𝐩
Significant wave height from spectral analysis, determined at deep water
𝐇 𝐦𝟎 𝐭𝐨𝐞
Significant wave height from spectral analysis at the toe of the structure.
𝐇 í µí°Significant wave height, H1/3 of the incident waves at the toe of the structure.
𝐤 ∆
layer coefficient.
𝐊 𝐝
Stability coefficient.
𝐋 𝟎
The theoretical wavelength of the offshore wave.
𝐌 𝟓𝟎
The median mass of armour stone.
𝒏
Number of layers.
𝑷𝒂
Atmospheric pressure.
𝐏
Notional permeability of the structure.
𝐏𝐨𝐰
Percentage of the waves resulting in overtopping
𝛒 𝟎
The reference density of water.
𝛒 𝐜
the apparent concrete density (kg/m³).
𝛒 𝐫
the apparent rock density (kg/m³).
𝛒 𝐰
the apparent water density (kg/m³).
𝐬 𝟎
The fictitious wave steepness.
𝐬 𝐨𝐦
wave steepness with Lo, based on Tm
𝐒
Amplitude of discharge caused by point sources.
𝛔
Wave action density.
𝒕
Time.