44
24Ocean waves are much more regular than waves in the fetch
area because they are……………………………..
25Waves
in
shallow
water
are
affected
…………………………………The
influence
of
………………..alters the wave s……………….
26The speed of the wave in deep water depends
on………………………………and………………..
27Once waves enter shallow water they …………………….. ,
their speed is regulated by ………………..
28One of the fundamental prperties of a wave , that does not
change , whether in shallow or deep water is …………………..
29The shallower the water ,………………………………..is
the speed of shallower water wave.
30…………………………….is a change in a wave’ s form , it
is the bending of the wave crest in response to changes in wave
speed.
31Hen waves enter shallow water , they refract or bend and
become nearlly parallel to…………………………
32As waves enter shallow water , their height …………….and
their
wavelength……………………….. ;
the
waves
get
………………just before tehy collapse as ………………….atthes
horeline.
33We have et least three types of breakers , we
have………………………………….
34In ………………………..,the crest becomes oversteepened
and spills down the front side of the advancing wave, wave energy
is released ………………….across the surf zone.
35In …………………….. …………… the crest curls over the
front
of
the
advancing
wave,
this
wave
collapses
………………………………….and much of the wave energy
dissipates……………………………….
36In …………………………………., the low waves do not
becme oversteepened or break , they move smoothly up and then
down the face of the beach.
37The most common breaker is ………………………type ,
which form over a gently………………sea bottom.