Références bibliographiques
189
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.csr.2012.07.018
Splinter, K.D., Palmsten, M.L., 2012. Modeling dune response to an East Coast Low. Mar.
Geol. 329–331, 46–57. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.margeo.2012.09.005
Stansell, P., 2004. Distributions of freak wave heights measured in the North Sea. Appl. Ocean
Res. 26, 35–48. https://doi.org/10.1016/J.APOR.2004.01.004
Stive, M.J.F., Aarninkhof, S.G.J., Hamm, L., Hanson, H., Larson, M., Wijnberg, K.M.,
Nicholls, R.J., Capobianco, M., 2002. Variability of shore and shoreline evolution. Coast.
Eng. 47, 211–235. https://doi.org/10.1016/S0378-3839(02)00126-6
Stive, M.J.F., Reniers, A.J.H.M., 2003. Sandbars in motion. Science (80-. ). 299, 1855–1856.
https://doi.org/10.1126/SCIENCE.1082512
Stokes, G., 1847. On the theory of oscillatory waves. Trans. Cambridge Philos. Soc.
Suanez, S., 2009. La question du bilan sédimentaire des côtes d’accumulation. Rôle des
forçages naturels et anthropiques dans les processus morphodynamiques analysés à partir
de quelques exemples pris en Méditerranée et en Bretagne. Université de Caen.
Suanez, S., Stéphan, P., 2011. Effects of Natural and Human Forcing on Mesoscale Shoreline
Dynamics of Saint-Michel-en-Grève Bay (Brittany, France), Shore & Beach.
Sulis, A., Cozza, R., Annis, A., 2017. Extreme wave analysis methods in the gulf of Cagliari
(South
Sardinia,
Italy).
Ocean
Coast.
Manag.
140,
79–87.
https://doi.org/10.1016/J.OCECOAMAN.2017.02.023
Sumer, B.M., Guner, H.A.A., Hansen, N.M., Fuhrman, D.R., Fredsøe, J., 2013. Laboratory
observations of flow and sediment transport induced by plunging regular waves. J.
Geophys. Res. Ocean. 118, 6161–6182. https://doi.org/10.1002/2013JC009324
Tanaka, H., Thu, A., 1994. Full-range equation of friction coefficient and phase difference in a
wave-current boundary layer. Coast. Eng. 22, 237–254. https://doi.org/10.1016/03783839(94)90038-8
Tawn, J.A., 1988. An extreme-value theory model for dependent observations. J. Hydrol. 101,
227–250. https://doi.org/10.1016/0022-1694(88)90037-6
Teena, N. V., Sanil Kumar, V., Sudheesh, K., Sajeev, R., 2012. Statistical analysis on extreme
wave height. Nat. Hazards 64, 223–236. https://doi.org/10.1007/S11069-012-0229-Y
Thevasiyani, T., Perera, K., 2014. Statistical analysis of extreme ocean waves in Galle, Sri
Lanka. Weather Clim. Extrem. 5–6, 40–47. https://doi.org/10.1016/J.WACE.2014.07.003
Thieler, E.R., Danforth, W.W., 1994. Historical shoreline mapping (II): application of the
digital shoreline mapping and analysis systems (DSMS/DSAS) to shoreline change
mapping in Puerto Rico. J. Coast. Res. URL https://www.jstor.org/stable/4298256.
Thieler, E.R., Himmelstoss, E.A., Zichichi, J.L., Ergul, A., 2009. The Digital Shoreline
Analysis System (DSAS) Version 4.0 - An ArcGIS extension for calculating shoreline
change. Open-File Rep. https://doi.org/10.3133/OFR20081278
Thornton, E.B., Guza, R.T., 1983. Transformation of wave height distribution. J. Geophys. Res.
88, 5925–5938. https://doi.org/10.1029/JC088iC10p05925
Thornton, E.B., Humiston, R.T., Birkemeier, W., 1996. Bar/trough generation on a natural
beach. J. Geophys. Res. Ocean. 101, 12097–12110. https://doi.org/10.1029/96JC00209
Tsimplis, M.N., Shaw, A.G.P., 2010. Seasonal sea level extremes in the Mediterranean Sea and
at the Atlantic European coasts. Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci. 10, 1457–1475.
https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-10-1457-2010
USACE, 1985. Field Research Facility > Engineer Research and Development Center > Storms.
URL
https://www.erdc.usace.army.mil/Media/Fact-Sheets/Fact-Sheet-ArticleView/Article/476710/field-research-facility/.
USWRC, 1981. Estimating peak flow frequencies for natural ungaged watersheds: a proposed
nationwide test.
189
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.csr.2012.07.018
Splinter, K.D., Palmsten, M.L., 2012. Modeling dune response to an East Coast Low. Mar.
Geol. 329–331, 46–57. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.margeo.2012.09.005
Stansell, P., 2004. Distributions of freak wave heights measured in the North Sea. Appl. Ocean
Res. 26, 35–48. https://doi.org/10.1016/J.APOR.2004.01.004
Stive, M.J.F., Aarninkhof, S.G.J., Hamm, L., Hanson, H., Larson, M., Wijnberg, K.M.,
Nicholls, R.J., Capobianco, M., 2002. Variability of shore and shoreline evolution. Coast.
Eng. 47, 211–235. https://doi.org/10.1016/S0378-3839(02)00126-6
Stive, M.J.F., Reniers, A.J.H.M., 2003. Sandbars in motion. Science (80-. ). 299, 1855–1856.
https://doi.org/10.1126/SCIENCE.1082512
Stokes, G., 1847. On the theory of oscillatory waves. Trans. Cambridge Philos. Soc.
Suanez, S., 2009. La question du bilan sédimentaire des côtes d’accumulation. Rôle des
forçages naturels et anthropiques dans les processus morphodynamiques analysés à partir
de quelques exemples pris en Méditerranée et en Bretagne. Université de Caen.
Suanez, S., Stéphan, P., 2011. Effects of Natural and Human Forcing on Mesoscale Shoreline
Dynamics of Saint-Michel-en-Grève Bay (Brittany, France), Shore & Beach.
Sulis, A., Cozza, R., Annis, A., 2017. Extreme wave analysis methods in the gulf of Cagliari
(South
Sardinia,
Italy).
Ocean
Coast.
Manag.
140,
79–87.
https://doi.org/10.1016/J.OCECOAMAN.2017.02.023
Sumer, B.M., Guner, H.A.A., Hansen, N.M., Fuhrman, D.R., Fredsøe, J., 2013. Laboratory
observations of flow and sediment transport induced by plunging regular waves. J.
Geophys. Res. Ocean. 118, 6161–6182. https://doi.org/10.1002/2013JC009324
Tanaka, H., Thu, A., 1994. Full-range equation of friction coefficient and phase difference in a
wave-current boundary layer. Coast. Eng. 22, 237–254. https://doi.org/10.1016/03783839(94)90038-8
Tawn, J.A., 1988. An extreme-value theory model for dependent observations. J. Hydrol. 101,
227–250. https://doi.org/10.1016/0022-1694(88)90037-6
Teena, N. V., Sanil Kumar, V., Sudheesh, K., Sajeev, R., 2012. Statistical analysis on extreme
wave height. Nat. Hazards 64, 223–236. https://doi.org/10.1007/S11069-012-0229-Y
Thevasiyani, T., Perera, K., 2014. Statistical analysis of extreme ocean waves in Galle, Sri
Lanka. Weather Clim. Extrem. 5–6, 40–47. https://doi.org/10.1016/J.WACE.2014.07.003
Thieler, E.R., Danforth, W.W., 1994. Historical shoreline mapping (II): application of the
digital shoreline mapping and analysis systems (DSMS/DSAS) to shoreline change
mapping in Puerto Rico. J. Coast. Res. URL https://www.jstor.org/stable/4298256.
Thieler, E.R., Himmelstoss, E.A., Zichichi, J.L., Ergul, A., 2009. The Digital Shoreline
Analysis System (DSAS) Version 4.0 - An ArcGIS extension for calculating shoreline
change. Open-File Rep. https://doi.org/10.3133/OFR20081278
Thornton, E.B., Guza, R.T., 1983. Transformation of wave height distribution. J. Geophys. Res.
88, 5925–5938. https://doi.org/10.1029/JC088iC10p05925
Thornton, E.B., Humiston, R.T., Birkemeier, W., 1996. Bar/trough generation on a natural
beach. J. Geophys. Res. Ocean. 101, 12097–12110. https://doi.org/10.1029/96JC00209
Tsimplis, M.N., Shaw, A.G.P., 2010. Seasonal sea level extremes in the Mediterranean Sea and
at the Atlantic European coasts. Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci. 10, 1457–1475.
https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-10-1457-2010
USACE, 1985. Field Research Facility > Engineer Research and Development Center > Storms.
URL
https://www.erdc.usace.army.mil/Media/Fact-Sheets/Fact-Sheet-ArticleView/Article/476710/field-research-facility/.
USWRC, 1981. Estimating peak flow frequencies for natural ungaged watersheds: a proposed
nationwide test.