250
P. Liu
Fig. 3.72 High tide waves
Fig. 3.73 Vibration wave
standing wave (the water particle vibrates in the vertical direction). The
movement of wave shape is different from that of water particle. If the
movement direction of wave shape is the same as that of water particle,
it is called longitudinal wave. If the direction of motion is vertical, it is
called transverse wave. Generally speaking, sea surface waves are neither
longitudinal waves nor transverse waves. The water particle moves in a
circle or ellipse on a vertical plane.
(5) According to water depth, there are deepwater waves, shallow water
waves, and intermediate water waves (as shown in Figs. 3.74 and 3.75).
Let the water depth be H and the wavelength be λ, then H/λ is the ratio
Précédent

- 263/659

Suivant