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final product images and material textures. Among other advantages of this technology, seamless production only requires the minimum amount of yarn needed, meaning no material loss is generated. “The knitting industry can make a significant
contribution globally to savings in terms of energy consumption and waste through
a number of avenues including tightening internal efficiency (reducing downtime),
using indirect technology (needles and oils), implementing innovative technologies
to change the manufacturing process (less waste, reduced post knitting operations)
and reduced transport costs (complete garment for warp knitting, flat-bed knitting
and circular weft knitting)” (Power 2012: 7).
The German company Groz-Beckert, manufacturer of the circular knitting
machine needles, created litespeed® to promote environmental protection by changing the needle weight and size. This procedure reduces friction during the knitting
process, resulting in energy consumption reduction of up to 20% whilst reducing
CO2 emissions (Power 2012). However, the complexities of the knitted garment
construction and the difficulty of visualizing all the variables of the design process
have overwhelmed knitting designers as well as technicians. In knitting design, the
pattern shape and size are directly related to the material. The pattern is made by the
software, and variables such as the roller tension, loop size, stitch type, quantity of
threads by carrier, etc. need to be tested and modified for each type of yarn according to its thickness and other characteristics. This design process is far more complex than sewing and cutting which may influence the number of knitted products in
fashion collections.
16.2.3.4 Waste and Disposal
Textiles can end up in landfills and can leak chemicals thereby poisoning groundwater, streams and rivers. Urgent actions on waste management are therefore necessary
to reverse land degradation and halt biodiversity loss. Recycling is a sustainable
practice adopted by various companies, yet the major problem confronting the fashion industry is related to post-consumer goods ending up at the landfill site.
16.2.3.4.1 Polyester Recycling
There are two methods of recycling in the fashion industry, namely, the mechanical
and chemical methods. In the former method only single material clothes can be
recycled. The process involves cutting them to small pieces, then ripping, spinning
and blending them with virgin fibre. After the process is completed, these products
are unlikely to be recycled for a second time. Chemical methods are often used for
recycling synthetic materials such as polyethylene terephthalate PET, but postconsumed PET fibres are usually not recycled a second time due to various technical
difficulties. Methods of recycling PET are often carried out through solvolysis or
pyrolysis which can provide environmental solutions. The first is the degradation of
waste material by solvents including water. In the second, the degradation process
16 SDG 15 Life on Land
final product images and material textures. Among other advantages of this technology, seamless production only requires the minimum amount of yarn needed, meaning no material loss is generated. “The knitting industry can make a significant
contribution globally to savings in terms of energy consumption and waste through
a number of avenues including tightening internal efficiency (reducing downtime),
using indirect technology (needles and oils), implementing innovative technologies
to change the manufacturing process (less waste, reduced post knitting operations)
and reduced transport costs (complete garment for warp knitting, flat-bed knitting
and circular weft knitting)” (Power 2012: 7).
The German company Groz-Beckert, manufacturer of the circular knitting
machine needles, created litespeed® to promote environmental protection by changing the needle weight and size. This procedure reduces friction during the knitting
process, resulting in energy consumption reduction of up to 20% whilst reducing
CO2 emissions (Power 2012). However, the complexities of the knitted garment
construction and the difficulty of visualizing all the variables of the design process
have overwhelmed knitting designers as well as technicians. In knitting design, the
pattern shape and size are directly related to the material. The pattern is made by the
software, and variables such as the roller tension, loop size, stitch type, quantity of
threads by carrier, etc. need to be tested and modified for each type of yarn according to its thickness and other characteristics. This design process is far more complex than sewing and cutting which may influence the number of knitted products in
fashion collections.
16.2.3.4 Waste and Disposal
Textiles can end up in landfills and can leak chemicals thereby poisoning groundwater, streams and rivers. Urgent actions on waste management are therefore necessary
to reverse land degradation and halt biodiversity loss. Recycling is a sustainable
practice adopted by various companies, yet the major problem confronting the fashion industry is related to post-consumer goods ending up at the landfill site.
16.2.3.4.1 Polyester Recycling
There are two methods of recycling in the fashion industry, namely, the mechanical
and chemical methods. In the former method only single material clothes can be
recycled. The process involves cutting them to small pieces, then ripping, spinning
and blending them with virgin fibre. After the process is completed, these products
are unlikely to be recycled for a second time. Chemical methods are often used for
recycling synthetic materials such as polyethylene terephthalate PET, but postconsumed PET fibres are usually not recycled a second time due to various technical
difficulties. Methods of recycling PET are often carried out through solvolysis or
pyrolysis which can provide environmental solutions. The first is the degradation of
waste material by solvents including water. In the second, the degradation process
16 SDG 15 Life on Land