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of enzymes. Enzymes can be used as substitutes for chemicals in the fashion industry. They can be obtained from three primary sources: animal tissue, plants and
microbes. Enzymes are safely dischargeable after use, are biodegradable, consume
low energy and produce lower greenhouse gas emissions. A case in point is lotus
effect, a finishing treatment that alters the surface of the textile by biometric technology making the textile stain and soil-resistant (Kapsali 2012).
16.2.3.3 Product Production: Manufacturing Process
16.2.3.3.1 Design and Patternmaking Techniques
The design process also requires significant sustainability consciousness: “When
talking about sustainability-oriented design, it is quite consolidated the fact that
designers can play an important role especially in the early stages of design ... where
80% of impacts have been determined” (Marseglia 2017: 4). Design practices, such
as zero-waste patternmaking, digital printing, recycling and upcycling, have proven
to be of great value to create garments and fashion goods.
A case in point is the zero-waste design. It is a technique in which garments are
designed and produced without creating textile waste by fitting all the parts of the
pattern in one piece of the fabric. Instead of “forcing” patterns to fit together, zerowaste design requires new approaches to patternmaking. Some designers are applying traditional pattern techniques, using the whole piece of cloth, whereas others
consider ways in which clothes should “wrap” the body rather than fit it. The zerowaste movement has been embraced internationally and includes designers such as
Mark Liu, Julian Roberts, Holly McQuillan, Yeohlee Teng and Timo Rissanen.
16.2.3.3.2 Sewing Construction Garments
In her book Sustainable Fashion & Textiles, Kate Fletcher (2014) states that the
most common approach to tackle waste arising from the textile life cycle is to implement waste management strategies (widely known as the 3Rs: reduce, reuse, recycle) (Fletcher 2014). In other words, “everything is a source for something else”
(McDonough and Braungart 2002).
There are two types of recycling: downcycling, a process in which the recovered
materials are processed into lower value products, and upcycling, in which the
recovered materials are transformed into better quality products. Some companies
have started using waste for product manufacturing. A case in point is Patagonia, a
company committed to reduce its environmental impact by producing the most ecosound way they can afford to. This philosophy of environmental conservation has
been used not only for manufacturing but also for branding purposes. Patagonia
uses 100% hemp textiles or hemp blended with recycled fibre textiles for manufacturing. The company also uses organic certified cotton, recycled wool and nylon,
among others. Patagonia has also used polyester fabrics recycled from PET soda
16 SDG 15 Life on Land
of enzymes. Enzymes can be used as substitutes for chemicals in the fashion industry. They can be obtained from three primary sources: animal tissue, plants and
microbes. Enzymes are safely dischargeable after use, are biodegradable, consume
low energy and produce lower greenhouse gas emissions. A case in point is lotus
effect, a finishing treatment that alters the surface of the textile by biometric technology making the textile stain and soil-resistant (Kapsali 2012).
16.2.3.3 Product Production: Manufacturing Process
16.2.3.3.1 Design and Patternmaking Techniques
The design process also requires significant sustainability consciousness: “When
talking about sustainability-oriented design, it is quite consolidated the fact that
designers can play an important role especially in the early stages of design ... where
80% of impacts have been determined” (Marseglia 2017: 4). Design practices, such
as zero-waste patternmaking, digital printing, recycling and upcycling, have proven
to be of great value to create garments and fashion goods.
A case in point is the zero-waste design. It is a technique in which garments are
designed and produced without creating textile waste by fitting all the parts of the
pattern in one piece of the fabric. Instead of “forcing” patterns to fit together, zerowaste design requires new approaches to patternmaking. Some designers are applying traditional pattern techniques, using the whole piece of cloth, whereas others
consider ways in which clothes should “wrap” the body rather than fit it. The zerowaste movement has been embraced internationally and includes designers such as
Mark Liu, Julian Roberts, Holly McQuillan, Yeohlee Teng and Timo Rissanen.
16.2.3.3.2 Sewing Construction Garments
In her book Sustainable Fashion & Textiles, Kate Fletcher (2014) states that the
most common approach to tackle waste arising from the textile life cycle is to implement waste management strategies (widely known as the 3Rs: reduce, reuse, recycle) (Fletcher 2014). In other words, “everything is a source for something else”
(McDonough and Braungart 2002).
There are two types of recycling: downcycling, a process in which the recovered
materials are processed into lower value products, and upcycling, in which the
recovered materials are transformed into better quality products. Some companies
have started using waste for product manufacturing. A case in point is Patagonia, a
company committed to reduce its environmental impact by producing the most ecosound way they can afford to. This philosophy of environmental conservation has
been used not only for manufacturing but also for branding purposes. Patagonia
uses 100% hemp textiles or hemp blended with recycled fibre textiles for manufacturing. The company also uses organic certified cotton, recycled wool and nylon,
among others. Patagonia has also used polyester fabrics recycled from PET soda
16 SDG 15 Life on Land