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for capturing and using of raw material in production process (ecodesign), and inducing real sustainability through new revenue streams in the take-back process (reverse
logistics).
From 28 articles analyzed, there are 22 case studies, three analyses of company
reports, two bibliographic reviews, and one method applicable to SCM.
Among practices related to environmental management system (EMS), studies
suggest that current solutions refer to specific situations and that few companies are
already developing extended solutions throughout the production chain up to the
point of sale due to the high complexity and subsequent difficulties in controlling
the actions of suppliers (Pedersen and Gwozdz 2014). This misalignment between
suppliers and the focal company is one of the barriers faced by the clothing industry
(Li et al. 2014).
In addition, Khurana and Ricchetti (2016) point out that NGO campaigns play
a key role in providing support for strategies and decisions on sustainability goals
of fashion brands. As such, the focus of sustainability comprises from internal processes to the entire supply chain, including stakeholder needs (goals, accountability,
demands) (De Brito et al. 2008).
As the range of products and needs by external suppliers grows, it becomes more
difficult to integrate and manage the activities and quality of production within the
supply chain (Turker and Altuntas 2014). This difficulty is observed in green purchasing practices, since the implementation of sustainability actions with the suppliers
may incur high costs to the focal company or the non-acceptance by the producer
for long-term partnerships.
On the other hand, green purchasing practices have been encouraged and applied
by retailers in the conventional mass market due to the availability of new technologies, such as certification and use of organic cotton (Hansen and Schaltegger 2013).
Improved processes can also be observed due to implementation of codes of conduct
for retailers’ partners. In this case, companies in the industry could integrate their
code of conduct into a specific sector structure and develop a comprehensive set of
principles on SCM (Turker and Altuntas 2014).
Not only would this step be important in promoting a consistent system for in-use
compliance for suppliers (existing and potential ones) but it would also help overcome
the problems caused by the fragmented nature of current in-use compliance systems
(Garcia-Torres et al. 2017; Turker and Altuntas 2014). Partnerships can also generate
new production arrangements, such as reverse logistics with companies that collect
and reuse discarded clothing materials to return to the production chain (Oh and
Jeong 2014).
Still regarding with reverse logistics, loss reduction is an opportunity that is tied
to these processes but it can also be directly related to lack of employee training.
Even if the focal company demands time and resources for product return practices
(for reuse, recycling, remanufacturing, or proper disposal), the absence of a strong
commitment from senior management to promote sustainable principles within the
company affects the progression of this goal.
These limitations will also affect ecodesign. For example, a footwear
company aims to implement products to fit in a sustainable brand
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