»
'
'
XIII
v
-
Ï.
.,
371
-—
‘
'
1.1. Tide description
1
_
1.2. Tide generation-forces
3
1.3. Tide potent1al
5
1.4. Thegenera‘l’ equation of tides8
1.5. A partieuîar solution: the Kelvin waves
10
1.6. Tide prediction
13
'
1.7. The tides on the Oceans
14
,
11. Digest of the wave theories
,
_
17
_
.
11.1. Generalities
.
17
-
11.2. The different wave models
18
11.3. Wave energy
31
III. Wave propagation
-
32
Wave breaking
'
32
'
.
_
111.2. Wave reexion
‘
39
,
‘
-
111.3. Wave _refraetion
44
‘
wave “diffraction
'
48
111.5. Methods for Wave diffraCtion-diagfatn computation
’
‘
51
-
IV. A'ctual waves
58
_
1V…1
recording,
IV2Randomvgaÿes
_
_
_
*
VHydrodynamzcs0fmartnesedzments
……-.;—
75
,
,
: V1COastalmomhology 75
V25Œ1menïm0vement78
,
»
V3C0astaldefense
95
?
..
…
'
, —
‘“
?" V4Amfl°lal beaches
99
f =
_…
,îjÎ V1Ejfectsofwaves0nstruçtures 102
—‘
VI2Isolatedvert1ealcyhndncalstructures114_
Ï «? VHZHydmdynam1050fanesmæy132
VIIIManamehydmuhcmodelhng138
'
'
XIII
v
-
Ï.
.,
371
-—
‘
'
1.1. Tide description
1
_
1.2. Tide generation-forces
3
1.3. Tide potent1al
5
1.4. Thegenera‘l’ equation of tides8
1.5. A partieuîar solution: the Kelvin waves
10
1.6. Tide prediction
13
'
1.7. The tides on the Oceans
14
,
11. Digest of the wave theories
,
_
17
_
.
11.1. Generalities
.
17
-
11.2. The different wave models
18
11.3. Wave energy
31
III. Wave propagation
-
32
Wave breaking
'
32
'
.
_
111.2. Wave reexion
‘
39
,
‘
-
111.3. Wave _refraetion
44
‘
wave “diffraction
'
48
111.5. Methods for Wave diffraCtion-diagfatn computation
’
‘
51
-
IV. A'ctual waves
58
_
1V…1
recording,
IV2Randomvgaÿes
_
_
_
*
VHydrodynamzcs0fmartnesedzments
……-.;—
75
,
,
: V1COastalmomhology 75
V25Œ1menïm0vement78
,
»
V3C0astaldefense
95
?
..
…
'
, —
‘“
?" V4Amfl°lal beaches
99
f =
_…
,îjÎ V1Ejfectsofwaves0nstruçtures 102
—‘
VI2Isolatedvert1ealcyhndncalstructures114_
Ï «? VHZHydmdynam1050fanesmæy132
VIIIManamehydmuhcmodelhng138