SUBJECT INDEX
567
variable-draft type 357
wave breaking scale effects 116,
153
wave bursts 98
wave data analysis 494
wave direction spreading function
432
wave gauges
calibration 477
capacitance type 475
directional 478
resistance type 474
wave generation
additional topics 437
bound long wave
effects 418
practical aspects 419
directional waves 427, 432
first-order
irregular waves 404
regular waves 339
irregular 2-d waves 392
irregular wave synthesis 393
long-wave correction 418
Lundgren and Sand method
408
measured irregular waves 407
nonlinear 366
second-order
bound long waves 414
directional waves 436
higher harmonics 420, 422
irregular waves 410
specific transient waves 389
sweep frequency method 390
techniques survey 392
transient long waves 390
transient waves 386
wave group synthesis 402
wave height
attenuation 109, 110
mean 498
root-mean squared 498
significant 500
statistics 498
wave impacts 214
wave measurement 473
wave period, mean 498
wave reflection analysis 502
basic equations 506
co-located velocities 517
Goda and Suzuki 508
irregular waves 506
long waves 512
Mansard and Funke 511
regular waves 503
second-order methods 519
vertical array method 514
wave reflection scale effects 100,
146
wave shock effects 217
wave transmission effects 101,146
wavemakers
boundary condition 429
directional 427
equations
first-order 340
first-order oblique 428
second-order 340
waves of permanent form
380
example
first-order 353
Stokes waves 373
first-order potential 343
first-order sea surface 344
flap-type solution 345
flexible wave board type 445
governing equations 335
inclined plate 363
piston-type solution 345
plunger-type 364
oblique wave velocity potential 430