SUBJECT INDEX
563
conclusions 316
similitude criteria 281
tests of distorted model criteria 308
tidal inlets 278
Vellinga’s model criteria 300
Wang’s model criteria 304
Xie’s model criteria 314
Murphy’s Law 483
Natl. Res. Council of Canada 6
Navier-Stokes equations
dimensional 86
long waves 136
long-wave, dimensionless 137
nondimensional 88
short waves, dimensionless 90
Noda’s movable-bed model
criteria 282
recommendations 286
nonlinear wave generation 366
numerical models 1
definition 15
Nyquist frequency 500
offshore model 123
onshore model 155
Oregon State University 362
oscillating water tunnels 93
particle image velocimetry 486
pendulum 47, 59
photographic documentation 494
physical models 1
advantages 6
definition 9
disadvantages 8
history 3
modeling goals 10
overview 9
types
design model 11
fixed-bed model 12
long-term model 13
movable-bed model 12
process model 11
sediment tracer model 13
short-term model 13
validation model 11
pitot tubes 479
pneumatic breakwaters 171
point gauge 472
Pointe Sapin Harbour 277
Port and Harbor Research Institute 6
pressure measurement 491
prototype data 244
prototype, definition 14
Rayleigh probability distribution
499
reflection
analysis 502
coefficient, regular waves 505
rubble-mound structures 188
refraction 95, 142
criterion 97, 143
relative fall speed 249
relative length 249
relative sediment density 249
Reynolds criterion 65
Reynolds number 31, 36, 65, 91,
139, 247
grain size 248
rubble-mound structures 186
sediment fall speed 298
viscous scale effects 184
Reynolds similitude
scale ratios 71
time scale 69
rubble-mound structure 101, 146,
170
aeration scale effect 189
damage 200
dimensionless products 176