3. Sédiment Transport
79
Fig. 3.24(c) Longshore sédiment transport obtained from CERC and Komar
distribution method (DIST) for December 2011.
Problem I
For the given data, m — 0.01 (bottom slope), Ho = 5m (deep water wave
height), T = 12s (wave period) calculate the Sxx, Syy, H and p and show
their variations along the depth.
Solution
Lo = 1.56 T2 — 225 m (deep water wave length)
772
£o = —f===- — 0.067 ---------- * spilling breakers
^/Hq/Lq
L = £o0.17 + 0.08 = 0.71 (breaker index, Battjes [1974])
Sample calculations for typical water depths are in Table 3.5, whereas,
Fig. 3.7 shows the variations of the parameters over the water depth.
sinh 2kd 2
Sxx = (2n - 1/2)E
Syy = (n — 1/2)H
Pressure = (l/2)pgd2
79
Fig. 3.24(c) Longshore sédiment transport obtained from CERC and Komar
distribution method (DIST) for December 2011.
Problem I
For the given data, m — 0.01 (bottom slope), Ho = 5m (deep water wave
height), T = 12s (wave period) calculate the Sxx, Syy, H and p and show
their variations along the depth.
Solution
Lo = 1.56 T2 — 225 m (deep water wave length)
772
£o = —f===- — 0.067 ---------- * spilling breakers
^/Hq/Lq
L = £o0.17 + 0.08 = 0.71 (breaker index, Battjes [1974])
Sample calculations for typical water depths are in Table 3.5, whereas,
Fig. 3.7 shows the variations of the parameters over the water depth.
sinh 2kd 2
Sxx = (2n - 1/2)E
Syy = (n — 1/2)H
Pressure = (l/2)pgd2