ix
Contents
Préfacé
v
1. Introduction
1
1.1 Background ............................................................................
1
1.2 Behaviour of Waves................................................................
2
1.2.1 Shoaling.......................................................................
3
1.2.2 Refraction...................................................................
5
1.2.3 Diffraction...................................................................
6
1.2.4 Breaking......................................................................
7
1.2.5 Refiection ...................................................................
8
1.3 The Indian Coast...................................................................
9
1.3.1 General..........................................................................
9
1.3.2 Tamil Nadu................................................................
12
1.3.3 Kérala.........................................................................
15
1.4 Summary...................................................................................
18
Ref erences.......................................................................................
18
2. Characteristics and Motion of Sédiments
20
2.1 Introduction............................................................................
20
2.2 Sédiment Classification..........................................................
21
2.3 Particle Size.............................................................................
21
2.3.1 Soil classification.......................................................
21
2.4 Plasticity...................................................................................
25
2.5 Shape.........................................................................................
26
2.6 Fall Velocity (vy) ...................................................................
26
2.7 Angle of Repose......................................................................
28
2.8 Effect of Température.............................................................
28
2.9 Effect of Sédiment Concentration ......................................
28
2.10 Effect of Turbulence...............................................................
29
2.11 Permeability and Porosity......................................................
29