Préfacé
The océan occupies about 70% of the earth’s surface which is bordered
by the irregular boundaries of land areas called coastline. These Coastal
stretches are usually densely populated in comparison to the landlocked
régions, primarily for trade and commerce through important/prédominant
sea routes and hence important cities are mostly formed along the coasts.
Owing to the large scale expansions, several infrastructural developments
hâve been witnessed along the shoreline, thereby a need to protect the life
and property of the Coastal community arises. It is necessary to understand
the dynamics and physics of the coasts in general to propose protection
measures. It is also noteworthy to mention that the Coastal régions are more
prone to natural hazards and hence spécifie measures need to be taken in
order to prevent hazards. The primary objective of this book is to serve the
senior undergraduate and graduate students, and researchers engaged in
the field of ocean/coastal engineering to understand the physics/dynamics
of coasts in response to the wind wave action with a number of worked out
examples and cases. This book is self-contained, since ail the représentations
hâve been clearly defined in the text. Further, the sequential arrangement
of chapters discussed in the book is well planned and drafted such that the
understanding of each of the chapters can be greatly enhanced by reading
its preceding chapter. It encompasses the fundamentals of the subject with
sufficient description and illustrations.
It is also expected to be of great help to professionals working in major
ports, harbours, Coastal engineering, consultancy agencies, etc.
The Introduction facilitâtes one to understand the different terminologies pertaining to the study of Coastal engineering and gives an insight
into the different types of wave deformation that could potentially alter the
Coastal geo-morphology. A brief introduction about the Indian coast with
spécial focus on the Coastal States of Tamil Nadu and Kérala are discussed
in this chapter.
The océan occupies about 70% of the earth’s surface which is bordered
by the irregular boundaries of land areas called coastline. These Coastal
stretches are usually densely populated in comparison to the landlocked
régions, primarily for trade and commerce through important/prédominant
sea routes and hence important cities are mostly formed along the coasts.
Owing to the large scale expansions, several infrastructural developments
hâve been witnessed along the shoreline, thereby a need to protect the life
and property of the Coastal community arises. It is necessary to understand
the dynamics and physics of the coasts in general to propose protection
measures. It is also noteworthy to mention that the Coastal régions are more
prone to natural hazards and hence spécifie measures need to be taken in
order to prevent hazards. The primary objective of this book is to serve the
senior undergraduate and graduate students, and researchers engaged in
the field of ocean/coastal engineering to understand the physics/dynamics
of coasts in response to the wind wave action with a number of worked out
examples and cases. This book is self-contained, since ail the représentations
hâve been clearly defined in the text. Further, the sequential arrangement
of chapters discussed in the book is well planned and drafted such that the
understanding of each of the chapters can be greatly enhanced by reading
its preceding chapter. It encompasses the fundamentals of the subject with
sufficient description and illustrations.
It is also expected to be of great help to professionals working in major
ports, harbours, Coastal engineering, consultancy agencies, etc.
The Introduction facilitâtes one to understand the different terminologies pertaining to the study of Coastal engineering and gives an insight
into the different types of wave deformation that could potentially alter the
Coastal geo-morphology. A brief introduction about the Indian coast with
spécial focus on the Coastal States of Tamil Nadu and Kérala are discussed
in this chapter.