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Coastal Engineering: Theory and Practice
Detailed information and example calculation of wave momentum flux
Mf, are specified in CHETN-III-67. A simple generic équation for wave
run-up in terms of wave momentum flux was established by Hughes [2003].
It was claimed that the weight of fluid within the area ABC of Fig. 6.2. is
proportional to the maximum depth-integrated wave momentum flux of the
wave just prior to it reaching the toe of the structure slope. The résultant
équation was given by the form,
%=C-F(a)
a
(6-21)
where C ■ F(ct) is an unknown function of the slope of the structure. For
convenience, the subscript “max” has been dropped from the wave momentum flux parameter.
Fig. 6.2 Maximum wave run-up on plane imperméable slope.
In the run-up équation (6.21), the relative run-up (R/d) is directly
proportional to the square root of the wave momentum flux parameter. (Note that representing the run-up sea surface slope as a straight
line is an approximation and may not be fully appropriate for nonbreaking waves on steep slopes, wherein, the water surface has pronounced
curvature.)
Based on the laboratory and field studies for different types of waves over
different slopes, the wave run-up established by researchers are tabulated
in Table 6.2.
Coastal Engineering: Theory and Practice
Detailed information and example calculation of wave momentum flux
Mf, are specified in CHETN-III-67. A simple generic équation for wave
run-up in terms of wave momentum flux was established by Hughes [2003].
It was claimed that the weight of fluid within the area ABC of Fig. 6.2. is
proportional to the maximum depth-integrated wave momentum flux of the
wave just prior to it reaching the toe of the structure slope. The résultant
équation was given by the form,
%=C-F(a)
a
(6-21)
where C ■ F(ct) is an unknown function of the slope of the structure. For
convenience, the subscript “max” has been dropped from the wave momentum flux parameter.
Fig. 6.2 Maximum wave run-up on plane imperméable slope.
In the run-up équation (6.21), the relative run-up (R/d) is directly
proportional to the square root of the wave momentum flux parameter. (Note that representing the run-up sea surface slope as a straight
line is an approximation and may not be fully appropriate for nonbreaking waves on steep slopes, wherein, the water surface has pronounced
curvature.)
Based on the laboratory and field studies for different types of waves over
different slopes, the wave run-up established by researchers are tabulated
in Table 6.2.