3. Sédiment Transport
91
Month
Hsb
(m)
cb
(m/s)
c9b
(m/s)
ab
sin 2ab
Pis
(N/s)
Q
(m3/month)
Jan
1.99 4.92442
4.72161 -15.59 -0.5177 -6093.6
-655064
Feb
2.17 5.09486
4.86463 -14.87 -0.4961 -7108
-764110
Mar
1.99 4.92442
4.72161 -11.61 -0.3943 -4640.4
-498847
Apr
1.52 4.30557 4.16858
-4.55 -0.1582
-957.14
-102892
May
1.72 4.76264 4.60501
-5.04 -0.175
-1492.1
-160400
June
3.00 5.98563
5.68265
15.74
0.5222
16822.1
1808373
July
3.24 6.20751
5.86968
17.75
0.5807 22474.2
2415972
Aug
2.59 5.48737 5.23986
10.13
0.34628 7638.81
821171
Sep
2.59 5.48737 5.23986
11.64
0.39522 8718.49
937237
Oct
1.84 4.69854 4.47112 -15.44 -0.5132 -4888.97
-525564
Nov
1.31
4.00011
3.86207
-6.29 -0.2178
-906.91
-97492.7
Dec
1.59 4.41443 4.23269
-8.6
-0.2957 -1980.4
-212889
Direction of drift
m3/yr
Southerly drift
-3017258
Northerly drift
5982754
Gross drift
9000012
Net drift (towards North)
2965496
(b) LEO Method
The detailed calculations for the month of January
The breaker wave height is given by
Hb =
1.5
33 r 15 |1/3
ûû 1 126.36 J
= 1.9925 m
Hb = 0.78dô, db = Hb/0.78, db = 1.9925/0.78 = 2.5545 m
Surf width = db x bed slope (1:80 given)
= 2.5545 x 80 = 204.36 m
°-714 UMw