REFERENCES
81
Plot three curves corresponding to A = 200 ft, 400 ft, and 600 ft, which show
the wave celerity as a function of water depth in this intermediate range.
3.4
A deepwater wave having a length of 512 ft and a height of 20 ft
propagates from deep to shallow water over the sea bottom which has a slope
of 1:30. Détermine the wave length and celerity as a function of depth.
3.5
In order to collect site-specific océanographie data, a tower is installed
in a water depth of 80 ft. One gage located 50 ft above the bottom senses an
average maximum dynamic pressure of 150 lb/ft2 at a period of 9 sec. Using
these data, compute the height and length of the corresponding wave. Is your
computed wave height the maximum that is présent at the site? Explain.
3.6
We know that surface tension forces become more important as the
wave lengths decrease. In particular, as wave lengths approach 1 in., the surface
tension forces become important relative to the gravity forces. We wish to make
a model study of a semisubmersible platform (200 ft x 200 ft) as it is excited
by waves with periods ranging from 4 to 15 sec. What is the minimum scale
ratio that is acceptable? What factors other than surface tension effects should
be considered in determining this scale ratio?
3.7
Suppose that a deepwater wave having a period of 10 sec and a height
of 10 ft is propagating normally toward shore over a gently sloping beach. Détermine the depth of water and the wave length when the wave breaks. (Hint:
Remember that as the wave length changes, the height must also change.)
REFERENCES
Airy, G. B.', On Tides and Waves, Encyclopoedia Metropolitana 5, 1845.
Dean, R. G., Stream Function Représentation of Nonlinear Océan Waves, Journal of
Geophysical Research 70 (18), 1965.
Dean, R. G., Relative Validities of Water Wave Théories, ASCE Proceedings: First
Conférence on Civil Engineering in the Océans, San Francisco, CA, 1967.
Dean, R. G., Evaluation and Development of Water Wave Théories for Engineering
Application: Présentation of Research Results, Spécial Report No. 1, U.S.
Army Corps of Engineers, Coastal Engineering Research Center, Ft. Belvoir,
VA, 1974.
Etube, L. S., Fatigue and Fracture Mechanics of Offshore Structures, Professional
Engineering Publishing Limited, London and Bury St. Edmunds, Suffolk, UK,
2001.
Gerstner, F., Théorie der Wellen, Abhandlungen der koniglichen bohmischen Gesellschaft
der Wissenschaften, Prague, 1802.
Havelock, T. H., The Propagation of Disturbances in Dtspersive Media, Cambridge
University Press, London, 1914.
81
Plot three curves corresponding to A = 200 ft, 400 ft, and 600 ft, which show
the wave celerity as a function of water depth in this intermediate range.
3.4
A deepwater wave having a length of 512 ft and a height of 20 ft
propagates from deep to shallow water over the sea bottom which has a slope
of 1:30. Détermine the wave length and celerity as a function of depth.
3.5
In order to collect site-specific océanographie data, a tower is installed
in a water depth of 80 ft. One gage located 50 ft above the bottom senses an
average maximum dynamic pressure of 150 lb/ft2 at a period of 9 sec. Using
these data, compute the height and length of the corresponding wave. Is your
computed wave height the maximum that is présent at the site? Explain.
3.6
We know that surface tension forces become more important as the
wave lengths decrease. In particular, as wave lengths approach 1 in., the surface
tension forces become important relative to the gravity forces. We wish to make
a model study of a semisubmersible platform (200 ft x 200 ft) as it is excited
by waves with periods ranging from 4 to 15 sec. What is the minimum scale
ratio that is acceptable? What factors other than surface tension effects should
be considered in determining this scale ratio?
3.7
Suppose that a deepwater wave having a period of 10 sec and a height
of 10 ft is propagating normally toward shore over a gently sloping beach. Détermine the depth of water and the wave length when the wave breaks. (Hint:
Remember that as the wave length changes, the height must also change.)
REFERENCES
Airy, G. B.', On Tides and Waves, Encyclopoedia Metropolitana 5, 1845.
Dean, R. G., Stream Function Représentation of Nonlinear Océan Waves, Journal of
Geophysical Research 70 (18), 1965.
Dean, R. G., Relative Validities of Water Wave Théories, ASCE Proceedings: First
Conférence on Civil Engineering in the Océans, San Francisco, CA, 1967.
Dean, R. G., Evaluation and Development of Water Wave Théories for Engineering
Application: Présentation of Research Results, Spécial Report No. 1, U.S.
Army Corps of Engineers, Coastal Engineering Research Center, Ft. Belvoir,
VA, 1974.
Etube, L. S., Fatigue and Fracture Mechanics of Offshore Structures, Professional
Engineering Publishing Limited, London and Bury St. Edmunds, Suffolk, UK,
2001.
Gerstner, F., Théorie der Wellen, Abhandlungen der koniglichen bohmischen Gesellschaft
der Wissenschaften, Prague, 1802.
Havelock, T. H., The Propagation of Disturbances in Dtspersive Media, Cambridge
University Press, London, 1914.