no
i
CM
RELATIVE DEPTH
SHALLOW WATER
A < _L
L
25
TRANSITIONAL WATER
1
d
1
25
L
2
DEEP WATER
d . 1
T > T
1 Wove Profile
2 Wove Celerity
3 . Wave Length
4 Group Velocify
5 Water Particle Velocity
a) Horizontal
b) Vertical
6 . Water Particle Accélérations
a) Horizontal
b) Vertical
7 Water Particle Displacements
a) Horizontal
b) Vertical
8 Subsurfoce Pressure
T
“ x °
«
c
o r - o
'
1 1
U
|(
Il
U
10
II
II
A 1 1
|
lx
_ J x
“ •
- ’l1Z
Z
l’ * " S "
o
= q
—1
X
V .
o
'
+
—
<
-
i i
s
M
i
A .
—*1=4
+
Q-r Q
«
h
„
co
—'
a. n
1^
i l
J
o.
••
a.
o
_
O- ।
1
'
_ Q-| ~
J
a. n
g
O
5
o
J
~
52
-
?
g
52
+
=
«,
w
Ct>
o
.|n
3
O
o
e n
H
T 2trx
2 it t 1 _ H
n
= 2 cos l “L------- ------- J - 7 cos 3
-
L
QT 4 . ( 2ird }
c=_= — tonh(
l
)
gT2
/ 2ird x
L = 4— tonh (—;— )
2ir
' L
'
Cg - nC - 2 [ 1 + s|nh (47rd/L) ] c
u = H £T cosh [27r(z +d)/L] cos g
2 L
cosh(27Td/L)
w = H gT smh [27r(z + d)/L] sm g
2 L
cosh ( 2trd/L )
grrH
cosh [ 2 ir ( z + d )/L]
h
“« -
L
cosh(2ird/L) ‘ s,n 8
ar-_- AI2L sinh [2ir(z+d)/L]
q
1
L
cosh(27rd/L)
f
H
cosh [2% ( z + d )/L]
n
2
smh(27Td/L)
►
H
smh [2ir ( z +d )/L]
n
2
smh (2trd/L)
cosh [2 it ( z +d )/L]
P = ^ '
cosh(27rd/L)" '
Some As
r - r - k - 9T
C - co - T ’ 2ir
L= Lo=
= C0T
c ■ — c - -î^c9 - 2 C ‘ 4tr
TT H
u = - —- e
l
cos a
7TH
A
w = —y— e
L
sm a
2
2TTZ
ax = 2H ( y) e
L
sin a
az = - 2H (-y)2 e
cos 8
H
27rZ
£ = - y e
M
ZlrZ
£ = y e
L
cos 8
ZTTZ
p = pgTje
L
- pgz
Figure 2-6. Summary - Linear (Airy) Wave Theory - Wave Characteristics