Therefore,
H_V = 11S
hJ
2 n C
and since from Equations 2-3 and 2-6
and from Equation 2-35 where
h;
4nd/L
sinh (47rd/L)
tanh (27rd/L)
(47rd/L)
sinh (47rd/L)
(2-44)
H
where Ks or H/H^ is termed the shoaling coefficient. Values
of H/H^ as a function of d/Lo and d/L hâve been tabulated
in Tables C-l and C-2 of Appendix C.
(b) For the given wave, d/Lo = 10/512 = 0.01953. Either from Table
C-l or from an évaluation of Equation 2-44 above,
H
— = 1.233 .
Therefore,
H = 1.233(5) = 6.165 ft.
(c) The rate at which energy is being transported toward shore is the
wave energy flux.
P = ~ ÊoCo = nÊC .
Since it is easier to evaluate the energy flux in deep water,
the left side of the above équation will be used.
P
5120
per ft. of wave crest
sec
’
P - 5120 _
P
550 “ 9,31 horsepower per ft. of wave crest .
2-30