CHAPTER 1
INTRODUCTION TO COASTAL ENGINEERING
1.1 INTRODUCTION TO THE SHORE PROTECTION MANUAL
This Shore Protection Manual has been prepared to assemble in a
single three-volume publication coastal-engineering practices for shore
protection. "Coastal Engineering" is defined as the application of the
physical and engineering sciences to the planning, design, and construction of works to modify or control the interaction of the air, sea, and
land in the Coastal zone for the benefit of man and for the enhancement
of natural shoreline resources. "Shore protection," as used in this
Manual, applies to works designed to stabilize the shores of large bodies
of water where wave action is the principal cause of érosion. Much of
the material is applicable to the protection of navigation channels and
harbors.
The nature and degree of required shore-protection measures vary
widely at different localities. Proper solution of any spécifie problem
requires systematic and thorough study. The first requisite for such
study is a clear définition of the problem and the objectives sought.
The first factor to be determined is the cause of the problem. Ordinarily
there will be more than one method of obtaining the immédiate objective.
Therefore, the long-term effects of each method should be studied. The
immédiate and long-term effects of each method should be evaluated not
only within the problem area, but also in adjacent shore areas. Ail
physical and environmental effects, advantageous and detrimental, should
be considered in comparing annual costs and benefits to détermine the
justification of protection methods.
Detailed summaries of applicable methods, techniques, and useful data
pertinent to the solution of shore protection problems hâve been included
in this Manual.
By replacing Shore Protection* Ptanning and Design with the Shore
Protection Manuai* CERC is providing Coastal engineers with an improved
tool for solving shore-protection problems. The Manual is designed as
an advanced text, but contains sufficient introductory material to allow
a person with an engineering background to obtain an understanding of
Coastal phenomena and to solve related engineering problems.
Chapter 1 présents a basic introduction to the subject. Chapter 2,
"Mechanics of Wave Motion," treats wave théories, wave refraction and
diffraction, wave reflection, and breaking waves. Chapter 3, "Wave and
Water Level Prédictions," discusses wave forecasting, hurricane waves,
storm surge, and water level fluctuations. Chapter 4, "Littoral Processes," treats the characteristics and sources of littoral material
nearshore currents, littoral transport, and sand budget techniques.
Chapter 5, "Planning Analyses," treats the functional planning of shoreprotection measures. Chapter 6, "Structural Features," illustrâtes the
INTRODUCTION TO COASTAL ENGINEERING
1.1 INTRODUCTION TO THE SHORE PROTECTION MANUAL
This Shore Protection Manual has been prepared to assemble in a
single three-volume publication coastal-engineering practices for shore
protection. "Coastal Engineering" is defined as the application of the
physical and engineering sciences to the planning, design, and construction of works to modify or control the interaction of the air, sea, and
land in the Coastal zone for the benefit of man and for the enhancement
of natural shoreline resources. "Shore protection," as used in this
Manual, applies to works designed to stabilize the shores of large bodies
of water where wave action is the principal cause of érosion. Much of
the material is applicable to the protection of navigation channels and
harbors.
The nature and degree of required shore-protection measures vary
widely at different localities. Proper solution of any spécifie problem
requires systematic and thorough study. The first requisite for such
study is a clear définition of the problem and the objectives sought.
The first factor to be determined is the cause of the problem. Ordinarily
there will be more than one method of obtaining the immédiate objective.
Therefore, the long-term effects of each method should be studied. The
immédiate and long-term effects of each method should be evaluated not
only within the problem area, but also in adjacent shore areas. Ail
physical and environmental effects, advantageous and detrimental, should
be considered in comparing annual costs and benefits to détermine the
justification of protection methods.
Detailed summaries of applicable methods, techniques, and useful data
pertinent to the solution of shore protection problems hâve been included
in this Manual.
By replacing Shore Protection* Ptanning and Design with the Shore
Protection Manuai* CERC is providing Coastal engineers with an improved
tool for solving shore-protection problems. The Manual is designed as
an advanced text, but contains sufficient introductory material to allow
a person with an engineering background to obtain an understanding of
Coastal phenomena and to solve related engineering problems.
Chapter 1 présents a basic introduction to the subject. Chapter 2,
"Mechanics of Wave Motion," treats wave théories, wave refraction and
diffraction, wave reflection, and breaking waves. Chapter 3, "Wave and
Water Level Prédictions," discusses wave forecasting, hurricane waves,
storm surge, and water level fluctuations. Chapter 4, "Littoral Processes," treats the characteristics and sources of littoral material
nearshore currents, littoral transport, and sand budget techniques.
Chapter 5, "Planning Analyses," treats the functional planning of shoreprotection measures. Chapter 6, "Structural Features," illustrâtes the