hence,
H; = 1.05(5) = 5.25 feet,
and since, Lo = 5.12T2 (linear wave theory),
5.25
0.010.
5.12 (10)2
From Figure 2-65, entering with H^/L^ = 0.010 and intersecting the curve
for a slope of 1:20 (m = 0.05) results in H^/H^ = 1.65. Therefore
/
O
-
= 1.65(5.25) = 8.66 feet .
To détermine the depth at breaking calculate:
8.66
—- = ------------ - = 0.00269 ,
gT2
32.2 (10)2
and enter Figure 2-66 for m = 0.050.
Thus d^ = 0.90 (8.66) = 7.80 feet, and therefore the wave will break
when it is approximately 7.80/(0.05) = 156 feet from the shoreline,
assuming a constant nearshore slope. The initial value selected for
the refraction coefficient should now be checked to détermine if it is
correct for the actual breaker location as found in the. solution. If
necessary, a corrected value for the refraction coefficient should be
used and the breaker height recomputed. The example wave will resuit
in a plunging breaker. (See Figure 2-65.)
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