FIGURE
PAGE
2-58
Diffraction Diagram for a Gap of Two Wave Lengths and a
45° Approach Compared with that for a Gap Width /ï Wave
Lengths with a 90° Approach................................................................2-109
2-59
Single Breakwater - Refraction - Diffraction Combined. . . 2-111
2-60
Wave Reflection at Hamlin Beach, New York.................................... 2-112
2-61
Standing Wave (Clapotis) System - Perfect Reflection from
a Vertical Barrier - Linear Theory .........................
2-114
2-62
(H^/L^) max vs Beach Slope.................................................................... 2-119
2-63
x2 vs Beach Slope for Various Values H^/L^................................2-119
2-64
Wave of Limiting Steepness in Deep Water.....................................2-121
2-65
Breaker Height Index vs Deep Water Wave Steepness.................. 2-122
2-66
Dimensionless Depth at Breaking vs Breaker Steepness . . . 2-123
2-67
Spilling Breaking Wave.............................................................................2-125
2-68
Plunging Breaking Wave.............................................................................2-125
2-69
Surging Breaking Wave................................................................................. 2-126
2-70
Collapsing Breaking Wave........................................................................ 2-126
3-1
Sample Wave Records......................................................................................3-3
3-2
Waves in a Coastal Région........................................................................ 3-4
3-3
Theoretical and Observed Wave-Height Distributions .... 3-7
3-4
Theoretical and Observed Wave-Height Distributions .... 3-8
3-5
Theoretical Wave-Height Distributions............................................. 3-9
3-6
Typical Wave Spectra from the Atlantic Coast........................... 3-14
3-7
Observed and Hindcasted Significant Wave Heights vs Time . 3-18
3-8
Map of North Atlantic Grid Points, Océan Weather Ship
(OWS) Stations and Argus Island................................. 3-19
3-9
Surface Synoptic Chart for 0030Z, 27 October 1950..................
3-23
3-10
Sample Plotted Report................................................................................. 3-25
3-11
Geostrophic Wind Scale.............................................................................3-26
3-12
Possible Fetch Limitations .................................................................... 3-28
3-13
Relation of Effective Fetch to Width-Length Ratio for
Rectangular Fetches............................................................. 3-31
3-14
Computation of Effective Fetch for Irregular Shoreline . . 3-32
3-15
Deepwater Wave Forecasting Curves (for Fetches of 1 to
1000 miles)....................................................................................................3-36
3-16
Deepwater Wave Forecasting Curves (for Fetches of 100
to More than 1000 miles)................................................3-37
3-17
Location of Wave Hindcasting Stations and Summary of
Synoptic Meterological Observations (SSMO) Areas .... 3-41
3-18
A Comparison of Shipboard Observations and Hindcasts . . . 3-43
3-19
Decay Curves....................................................................................................3-44
3-20
Travel Time of Swell Based on tp = D/Cg.........................................3-45
3-21
Forecasting Curves for Shallow-Water Waves; Constant
Depth = 5 Feet...................................................................... 3-47
3-22
Forecasting Curves for Shallow-Water Waves; Constant
Depth = 10 Feet...................................................................... 3-47
3-23
Forecasting Curves for Shallow-Water Waves; Constant
Depth = 15 Feet.......................................................................................... 3-48